Beiyú
- Brunch
The old arrabal outside the Centro: the Plaza de la Trinidad, murals on Calle San Juan and two roasters' cafés.
Photo: Fer Izaguirre, Pexels License
Getsemaní grew up beside the walled Centro. Franciscans settled at its edge in 1555, and it filled with artisans, free Black residents and poorer families, becoming the colonial city's arrabal (outer quarter).1 It was enclosed by walls of its own from 1631, under Governor Francisco de Murga.2 The lanceros of Getsemaní, led by the Cuban-born Pedro Romero, set out from the Plaza de la Trinidad to proclaim Cartagena's independence in 1811.34
The barrio has changed quickly since the 2000s. By 2015 it had about a hundred small hotels and dozens of bars and restaurants, and long-time residents said they had become outsiders in their own streets.3 Its cafés are a few blocks apart, on Calle del Guerrero, Tripita y Media, San Antonio, San Juan and Espíritu Santo, and on a corner of Calle de la Media Luna.5
Local tip: Walk Calle San Juan's murals around 08:00, have breakfast at Beiyú on Calle del Guerrero, and come back to Café del Mural in the afternoon, when it opens.
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It is close. El Heraldo once measured the barrio at 97 steps from the Torre del Reloj, the walled city's Clock Tower.3 The walled Centro is a few minutes away on foot, and the Puente Román bridge leads on to the island of Manga.4
Murals are easiest to photograph early, around 08:00–08:30, before the shadows and the crowds, or between 16:00 and 18:00 for street life.4 Late at night, when the streets empty, a taxi is the safer way back.4
The Church of the Holy Trinity dominates the plaza, and in the evening street performers gather in front of it; carry COP 2,000 and 5,000 notes to tip them.4 Calle San Juan works as an open-air gallery, and the barrio's murals include work by Yurika, whose piece is María Mulata, and Fin DAC.4
Calle de la Media Luna was once a zona de tolerancia (red-light district) of decaying houses, and by 2015 international travel magazines were recommending it.3 Residents still see Getsemaní as the place where independence began: in the words of the guide Davinson Gaviria Paja, it was born here.1
Libertario Coffee Roasters stands on a corner of Calle de la Media Luna,5 at Carrera 10 #30-14. It roasts every day, sells its coffee by the bag and runs tastings and brewing sessions.6 Its house blends are called Paz and Libre, and baristas brew them by French press, V60 or Chemex.5 Here it opens daily 08:00–17:00.
Café del Mural, at Calle San Juan #25-60, works like a laboratory, and its owner will swap a bag of his blend for coffee from your home region. Tastings run 09:00–12:00, outside its normal hours, and must be booked ahead.4 It has its own farm in the mountains of Minca, and a 2026 guide gave its hours as 15:00–20:00.5
Beiyú, at Calle del Guerrero #29-75, opens earliest: 07:00–21:00 from Monday to Saturday and 09:00–18:00 on Sunday, with brunch on the menu. Stepping Stone serves every day from 08:00 to 15:30, so it suits a morning, not an evening.
Caffe Lunático, at Calle del Espíritu Santo #29-184, has Wi-Fi, as does Libertario. Between them, Getsemaní covers the day from Beiyú's 07:00 opening to the evening service at Café del Mural.
Very close: El Heraldo once counted 97 steps from the Torre del Reloj, the Clock Tower at the walled city's main gate, to Getsemaní. The walled Centro is a few minutes' walk away, and the Puente Román bridge connects the barrio to the island of Manga. At night, when the streets are empty, take a taxi back.
Libertario Coffee Roasters, on a corner of Calle de la Media Luna, roasts daily, brews its Paz and Libre blends by French press, V60 or Chemex and opens 08:00–17:00. Café del Mural on Calle San Juan has its own farm in Minca and runs booked tastings from 09:00 to 12:00, before it opens to everyone.
The lanceros of Getsemaní, led by the Cuban-born Pedro Romero, set out from the Plaza de la Trinidad in 1811 to proclaim Cartagena's independence from Spain. The Church of the Holy Trinity stands on the plaza, and in the evening street performers gather there; small notes of COP 2,000 and 5,000 are useful for tipping them.
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