Cafés in Jalatlaco

Getting to Jalatlaco on foot

Jalatlaco is about ten minutes' walk from the Centro Histórico, and the plaza in front of the Templo de Santo Domingo is the easiest place to start.⁶ An entrance arch leads into Calle Aldama, which Mexico News Daily calls the street that best sums up the barrio's art.³ In the evening, strings of lights hang over the streets.³

Calle Aldama has smaller streets branching off it, and a loop around Calle de 5 de Mayo brings you back to where you started.⁶ Jalatlaco Café is at 800a Calzada de la República, Elefante café at 204 Narciso Mendoza and ME Brew Bar & Coffee Art at 307 Calle de la Alianza.

Tanneries, San Matías and the coquitos

Jalatlaco was a tanners' barrio. The trade grew up beside the Jalatlaco River and faded as synthetic materials spread and the river declined.³ Until 15 to 20 years ago many residents still worked as saddlers, and some streets had curtidurías (tanneries) where hides were cured.² One street, Calle Curtidurías, keeps the name.⁶

The parish church, San Matías Jalatlaco, traces its origins to the early 17th century and has a façade of green-toned stone.³ Its belfry is painted yellow, blue and red.⁶ Two centenary trees known as coquitos stand in the barrio, and Porfirio Díaz lived here as a young man.¹

Murals and the Time Out list

Oaxacan artists have painted murals on the façades of restaurants, old houses and hotels across the barrio.¹ In September 2019 Time Out ranked Jalatlaco 17th on its list of the world's coolest neighborhoods, for cobbled streets lined with colorful houses and street art. It named Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) as the best time to visit, when the streets fill with people.⁴

Cafés on 5 de Mayo, Alianza and Narciso Mendoza

On Calle de 5 de Mayo, Santa Hierba at number 505 is Mexico News Daily's pick for brunch, with seating on the roof.³ Casa Blasón, on the same street, opens Monday to Saturday 08:00–21:00 and from 13:00 on Sundays.

Elefante café and Jalatlaco Café are the early starts, both opening at 07:30. Jalatlaco Café closes last, at 21:30 every day; Elefante runs until 21:00 from Tuesday to Sunday but stops at 15:00 on Mondays. ME Brew Bar & Coffee Art serves specialty coffee Monday to Saturday 08:00–20:00, and Once in Oaxaca, a bakery café with brunch, opens daily 08:00–19:00.