Cafeography
Mexico City · Del Valle, Narvarte & Portales

Cafés in Del Valle, Narvarte & Portales

Residential colonias south of the Viaducto: Almanegra’s bar on Avenida Universidad, cafés on Calle Petén and La Morena, and Vértiz by Parque de los Venados.

Photo: Andrés Semo, Pexels License

Colonia del Valle was founded in the Porfiriato as an aristocratic retreat. Early in the 20th century its ranches of alfalfa and fruit trees were divided into lots, and after Avenida de los Insurgentes was paved in 1920, houses and mansions followed.1 Narvarte, to the east, was developed from the 1940s, with Japanese, German and Lebanese immigrants among its first residents, and the Viaducto Miguel Alemán marks its northern edge.2 Portales, further south, grew out of a 17th-century hacienda.7

These are residential colonias, and their coffee is neighborhood coffee. Together they have the widest choice of cafés in the city, most of them on side streets such as Calle Petén, La Morena, Torres Adalid and Doctor Vértiz rather than on the big ejes (arterial roads). Almanegra has poured coffee on Avenida Universidad since at least 2014.3

Local tip: Almanegra’s Narvarte bar is at Universidad 420A, a short walk from Metro Eugenia on Line 3; order the cold brew, a house favorite since its first reviews.34

At a glance

299Cafés listed
26With opening hours
07:00Earliest opening
23:00Latest closing
  • Opens earliest: Espressino, from 07:00 (Mon–Fri 07:00–20:00 · Sat–Sun 08:00–14:00).
  • Closes latest: Vélo Café, until 23:00 (Daily 08:00–23:00).
  • Most listed streets: Calle La Morena (2).
  • Most common features: outdoor seating (5%), wi-fi (5%), open late (3%).

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Coffee chains in Del Valle, Narvarte & Portales

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Almanegra and the Narvarte coffee bars

When Time Out reviewed Alma Negra in December 2014, its founders had opened a coffee bar in Narvarte because they were tired of third-wave cafés belonging to a few parts of the city. The bar, at Universidad 420A near Metro Eugenia, brewed beans from Oaxaca, skipped cappuccinos, lattes and macchiatos, and offered a tasting of cold brew, a gibraltar (close to a cortado) and an espresso. The average spend was MX$80 a person.3

A decade on, Chilango’s January 2024 guide to Narvarte cafés described its alchemical and Masonic decor and recommended the cold foam, the cold brew and an espresso float with vanilla ice cream; drinks started at MX$60.4 A second Almanegra Café is at Balboa 203 in Portales, open daily from 09:00 to 19:00.

Calle Petén, La Morena and the side streets

Calle Petén has two of the area’s coffee stops. La Dosis Tostaduría, expendio de café y cafetería, a roaster that also sells beans and serves coffee, is at number 133, with Wi-Fi and outdoor tables. El Patio Café, at 680, has Wi-Fi and serves brunch, Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 21:30.

Calle La Morena has 3 Amores barra de café, CafeCafe and Once Once Café at number 1206. On Ajusco, Café Moreno bakes and serves daily from 10:00 to 22:00. La Trigueña, at Nicolás San Juan 570, is a bakery café with brunch and a terrace, open on weekends from 08:00 to 17:00.

For an early cup, Espressino on Miravalle and XĀLOH open at 07:00 on weekdays. Vélo Café stays open daily until 23:00, one of the latest closes in the area, and Tkfé on Avenida Plutarco Elías Calles serves until 22:00 from Monday to Saturday.

Parque de los Venados and Doctor Vértiz

Parque Francisco Villa, known to everyone as the Parque de los Venados, was laid out in 1952 and 1953 on a former brickyard and opened in 1957. It covers about 94,000 square meters in 18 gardens linked by winding paths, and holds the Joaquín Gallo Planetarium and the Hermanos Soler theater. The nickname comes from the deer statues in two fountains; the equestrian statue of Villa by Julián Martínez Soto was moved here in 1980 to make room for the Metro.5

The park has its own station on Metro Line 12, opened on 30 October 2012 at the corner of Eje 7 Sur Municipio Libre and Calle Uxmal.6 Bon Vivant Café is on the same avenue, at Municipio Libre 135. Avenida Doctor Vértiz, which shares the park’s address, has several small cafés: Apapacho Café at 903-A, Cafecito Tun Tun at 940 and Cafe El Silo Vertiz at 1274.

Portales and getting around

The fields of the Portales hacienda were a battleground in the Battle of Churubusco on 20 August 1847. The haciendas were sold in October 1914, after the Revolution, and the present colonia formed on their land; public services arrived only in the 1930s, under Lázaro Cárdenas.7

The Metro Line 3 stations near Del Valle are Etiopía, Eugenia, División del Norte, Zapata and Coyoacán, and Metrobús Line 2 stops at Amores, on the corner of Xola.1 Narvarte is also served by Metrobús Line 3.2 The ejes viales (one-way arterial roads) built through Del Valle in 1978 changed the colonia and prompted many families to leave.1

Sources

  1. Colonia del Valle, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  2. Narvarte, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  3. Alma Negra, Time Out México (December 22, 2014), accessed October 2026
  4. ¡Atención, coffee lovers! 7 cafeterías en la Narvarte que deben conocer, Chilango (January 2, 2024), accessed October 2026
  5. Francisco Villa Park (Parque de los Venados), Mexico City Tourism (Secretaría de Turismo CDMX), accessed October 2026
  6. Parque de los Venados metro station, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  7. Turismo: recorridos históricos por la colonia Portales de la Ciudad de México, Publimetro (February 1, 2023), accessed October 2026
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In Del Valle, Narvarte & Portales, also browse: Wi-Fi Outdoor seating Open late Bakery cafés Brunch

FAQ

Del Valle, Narvarte & Portales cafés: questions

Where is the Almanegra coffee bar in Mexico City’s Narvarte?

Almanegra’s Narvarte coffee bar is at Avenida Universidad 420A, near Metro Eugenia. In 2014 it brewed beans from Oaxaca and skipped cappuccinos and lattes in favor of a tasting of cold brew, gibraltar and espresso. In January 2024 its drinks started at MX$60. A second Almanegra Café is at Balboa 203 in Portales.

What is the Parque de los Venados in Mexico City’s Del Valle and Narvarte area?

The Parque de los Venados, officially Parque Francisco Villa, is a park of about 94,000 square meters on a former brickyard, laid out in 1952–53 and opened in 1957. It has 18 gardens, a planetarium and a theater, and its nickname comes from deer statues in two fountains. It has its own Metro Line 12 station, opened in 2012.

Which cafés in Mexico City’s Del Valle and Narvarte open early or close late?

In Del Valle and Narvarte, Espressino on Miravalle and XĀLOH open at 07:00 on weekdays. Vélo Café stays open daily until 23:00, and Café Moreno on Ajusco and Tkfé on Avenida Plutarco Elías Calles serve until 22:00. El Patio Café on Calle Petén is open on weekdays from 08:00 to 21:30.

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