Café Tortoni
- Wi-Fi
- Indoor seating
- Smoke-free indoors
Avenida de Mayo, Corrientes and the blocks around Plaza de Mayo, where the oldest bares notables are.
Photo: Jan Tang, Pexels License
The old center splits between two barrios: Monserrat, which takes in Avenida de Mayo and the blocks south of Plaza de Mayo, and San Nicolás, home of the Microcentro's office streets and Avenida Corrientes.1 Avenida de Mayo opened on 9 July 1894 and runs about 1,350 meters from Plaza de Mayo to Plaza del Congreso. It took the Paris boulevards as its model, but Spanish immigration gave it a character often compared with Madrid's Gran Vía.2
The oldest café in the city is here, Café Tortoni, from 1858, and so is La Puerto Rico, from 1887.54 Around them, in Monserrat and San Nicolás, are more bares notables than in any other part of the city, among them Confitería La Ideal, El Gato Negro, La Giralda, Petit Colón (Libertad 505), Bar Seddon (Defensa 695) and Vía 71 (Viamonte 1771).1
Local tip: For chocolate con churros after a show on Corrientes, La Giralda at number 1453 stays open all night on Fridays and Saturdays.
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Café Tortoni has stood at its current site since 1880; its entrance on Avenida de Mayo, at number 825, dates from 1898.23 Its website gives daily hours of 08:00–21:00.5 Tango and jazz play in La Bodega, the basement, where the Fénix Jazz Band has appeared on Saturdays since 1978.3
Line A, the first subway in Latin America, runs beneath the avenue; its Plaza de Mayo–Plaza Miserere section opened on 1 December 1913.2 Other old cafés line the same stretch: London City, in the former Gath y Chaves building since 1954, and the Iberia, which opened as La Toja in 1897 and was a meeting place for Spanish Republicans.2 Café Dalí is at Avenida de Mayo 948.
La Puerto Rico, one block south of Plaza de Mayo at Alsina 416, opened in 1887 and is one of the three oldest cafés in the city, according to the tourism office.4 It makes its own pastas, and old photographs on the walls record the films shot inside.4 The city legislature declared it a Sitio de Interés Cultural in 1999.4
La Giralda, at Avenida Corrientes 1453, began in 1930 as a small dairy run by Francisco Garrido, an Andalusian, who served his Colonial chocolate with churros.6 For decades it was open 24 hours. It closed in 2018 for financial reasons and reopened in August 2021 after a restoration that kept the white tiles and marble tables.6 The tourism office lists it as open 07:00–01:00 Sunday to Thursday and around the clock on Friday and Saturday.6
Two blocks west, El Gato Negro, at Corrientes 1669, opened in 1927 as a spice shop and keeps its original oak counters and shelves.7 A corner of it serves teas and coffee roasted and ground in view, with genuine Thonet chairs.7
Confitería La Ideal, at Suipacha 384, was founded in 1912 by Manuel Rosendo Fernández, a Spanish immigrant.8 It closed in 2017, and its more than 2,000 square meters were restored until November 2022.8 The dome has 60 stained-glass panels, the house runs its own bakery, pastry kitchen and chocolate shop, and the first-floor salon has hosted milongas since the 1970s.8
Specialty coffee is thinner on the ground downtown. Franco Specialty Coffee, at Presidente Luis Sáenz Peña 18, opens Monday to Saturday 08:00–19:00.







In Microcentro & Monserrat, also browse: Outdoor seating Wi-Fi
Café Tortoni, at Avenida de Mayo 825, opened in 1858 and is the oldest café in the city. It has been at its current site since 1880, and its entrance on the avenue dates from 1898. Its website gives daily hours of 08:00–21:00, and tango and jazz play in La Bodega, the basement.
La Giralda, at Avenida Corrientes 1453, has served chocolate with churros since Francisco Garrido opened it as a small dairy in 1930. It closed in 2018 and reopened in August 2021. The city's tourism office lists it as open 07:00–01:00 Sunday to Thursday and 24 hours on Friday and Saturday.
Confitería La Ideal, at Suipacha 384, closed in 2017, and the restoration of its more than 2,000 square meters ran until November 2022. Founded in 1912, it has a dome of 60 stained-glass panels and its own bakery and pastry kitchen, and its first-floor salon has hosted milongas since the 1970s.
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