Cafés in Testaccio & Aventino

The market and Via Marmorata

The Testaccio market moved from Piazza Testaccio to its covered site on Via Galvani in 2012.¹ It is open Monday to Saturday 07:00–15:30, with entrances on Via Beniamino Franklin, Via Alessandro Volta, Via Aldo Manuzio and Via Lorenzo Ghiberti.⁴ L'angolo del caffè and Malu are both at Via Alessandro Volta 124, and Caffe Tevere, on Largo Giovanni Battista Marzi by the river, has outdoor tables.

Via Marmorata, named after the marble that landed at the ancient river port, has more cafés than any other street here.¹ Pasticceria Barberini, at numbers 41–43, has baked since 1925 and serves tiramisù in an edible chocolate cup; its cornetti are made with butter and a natural starter.⁵ It opens daily 06:30–21:00.

Linari, Santa Maria Liberatrice and the Piramide

Pasticceria Linari, at Via Nicola Zabaglia 9, has tables inside and on the street. Central Park, Caffè Mon Amour and rgb46 are on Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, the square in front of the parish church, and on Viale della Piramide Cestia, Verso has Wi-Fi and outdoor tables.

For specialty coffee, Tram Depot at Via Marmorata 13 charged €1.20–3 for espresso in October 2025 and becomes a cocktail bar in the evening; Mostro, on Piazza di Porta San Paolo, charged €1.50–2.50.⁶ Charro Café on Via di Monte Testaccio is a late venue, open Thursday to Saturday 20:30–04:00.

Getting there: Piramide and Porta San Paolo

Piramide station on Line B is on Piazzale Ostiense, next to Porta San Paolo, a stop on the Roma-Lido railway, and an underpass links it to Roma Ostiense mainline station.⁷ The Pyramid of Cestius, the tomb that gives the station its name, is a few steps away; Caffè Negresco is at Viale della Piramide Cestia 35. At the Porta San Paolo end of Via Marmorata, Moonlight Cafe at number 157 and Il Gianfornaio, a bakery with outdoor tables at 159, are next door to each other.

Up the Aventine

The Aventine is a short climb from Via Marmorata. On Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, redesigned by Piranesi in 1765, the keyhole of the door at number 3 frames the dome of St Peter's at the end of an avenue of trees.⁸

Bars are scarce on the hill, so take your coffee below. Gusto Massimo, on Via del Circo Massimo, has outdoor tables, and 075 zerosettantacinque, at Via dei Cerchi 65 beside the Circus Maximus, is open daily 11:00–02:00.