A Mata
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Lisbon's most international neighborhood, along Avenida Almirante Reis.
Photo: Alyona Nagel, Pexels License
Arroios is the freguesia (parish) created in 2012 by merging São Jorge de Arroios, Anjos and Pena: 2.13 km² north-east of the center, with 33,302 residents at the 2021 census and its seat on Largo do Intendente.1 Its spine is Avenida Almirante Reis, which grew through the 20th century to link the Baixa with the new districts to the north, runs on to Areeiro and crosses the parish almost end to end.32
Time Out calls it the most multicultural parish in the city. The 2011 census counted 4,470 foreign residents here, the most of any Lisbon parish, and the figure quoted since is 92 nationalities.243 For coffee that means classic pastelarias (bakery-cafés) alongside places such as Cafeteria devora brazil on Rua da Penha de França, Snack Bar Nepali on Rua de Arroios and Taiyaki Café, a Taiwanese wheel-cake and tea shop, on Rua do Forno do Tijolo.
Local tip: If you are out before dawn, Pastelaria Luso-Americana at 146 Avenida Almirante Reis opens at 04:00 every day, the earliest coffee in Lisbon.
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The Green line runs through this part of the city with five stations: Martim Moniz, Intendente, Anjos, Arroios and Alameda, where it meets the Red line.5 North of Areeiro the avenue continues as Avenida Almirante Gago Coutinho toward the airport.3 Only a handful of the area's cafés are on the avenue itself; most sit on the side streets off it, such as Rua de Dona Estefânia, Rua da Penha de França and Rua Morais Soares.
Casa Independente, on Largo do Intendente, opened in 2012 in an 1863 mansion and is run by the cultural association Ironia Tropical.2 It is at 45 Largo do Intendente Pina Manique, open Tuesday to Saturday from the afternoon and until 02:00 on Fridays and Saturdays, so it is an afternoon and evening stop rather than a breakfast one.
The renovated Mercado de Arroios mixes produce stalls with places to eat. Terrapão, an artisan bakery, has traded there since December 2018, and Mezze, a Middle Eastern restaurant run by refugees, is one of its best-known tenants.2 In Jardim Constantino the old green kiosk was repainted mustard yellow and reopened as Mustarda, and Os Papagaios serves coffee from Flor da Selva, roasted in Lisbon.2
Avenida Almirante Reis has more cafés than any other street in the area. Sonho do Almirante at 134-A and Charrete at 98-A both open at 07:00 every day, Charrete until 22:00; Big Lanche at 108 is a Monday to Saturday counter that closes at 20:00. Café Limiana at 79C has outside tables and is open daily 08:00–20:00.
Two side streets are worth knowing. On Rua José Falcão, Neptuno (35–37) and O Castelhano (36) both open at 06:00 except on Sundays, with Pastelaria São Tomé further down at 11–13. On Rua Cavaleiro de Oliveira, Flagrante at 44-C is open daily 07:00–00:00, Pastelaria Suzelia at 34-B opens at 06:00 on weekdays, and Veganeats Caffe at 42 serves plant-based food until 17:00, Wednesday to Saturday.
Arroios keeps the longest café hours in Lisbon. Pastelaria Luso-Americana at 146 Avenida Almirante Reis is open daily 04:00–02:00, and Coffee in Brew stays open until 04:00 Monday to Friday. O Bom Café at 22 Rua Francisco Sanches closes at 02:00 every night, and Copélia at 120 Rua de São Lázaro opens daily at 06:30.
Weekends are less even. Cafetaria da Esquina and Tianjo on Rua de Dona Estefânia and Pastelaria Santa Cruz on Rua José Estevão open on weekdays only, or with short Saturdays. For brunch, GAL Cafe at 54A Rua do Forno do Tijolo runs until 17:00 Monday to Saturday and 15:00 on Sundays, and Café Brick at 2 Rua de Moçambique is closed on Mondays.










In Arroios & Anjos, also browse: Pastelarias Esplanadas Wi-Fi Brunch Open by 6am Open late
The 2011 census counted 4,470 foreign residents in Arroios, the most of any Lisbon parish, and the figure quoted since is 92 nationalities. Time Out calls it the most multicultural parish in the city. Formed in 2012 from São Jorge de Arroios, Anjos and Pena, it had 33,302 residents in 2021, with Avenida Almirante Reis crossing it almost end to end.
The Green line has five stations here, close together: Martim Moniz, Intendente, Anjos, Arroios and Alameda, where it meets the Red line. Avenida Almirante Reis, the parish spine, runs from the edge of the Baixa to Areeiro, and its pastelarias include Pastelaria Luso-Americana at 146, open daily 04:00–02:00.
Pastelaria Luso-Americana at 146 Avenida Almirante Reis is open daily 04:00–02:00, the longest café hours in Lisbon. Coffee in Brew stays open until 04:00 Monday to Friday, O Bom Café on Rua Francisco Sanches closes at 02:00 every night, and Copélia on Rua de São Lázaro opens daily at 06:30.
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