Café do Forte
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Monuments by the river and the city's most famous custard tarts.
Photo: Ana Rubio, Pexels License
Belém is Lisbon's riverside monument district in the west. The Jerónimos Monastery and the Torre de Belém, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, stand near the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the Centro Cultural de Belém and MAAT, the museum of art, architecture and technology.4 Manuel I ordered the monastery in 1495, and work began on 6 January 1501, paid for by a tax on trade from Africa and the Orient.2
For most visitors, coffee here comes with a pastel de nata (custard tart), and the best-known version has been baked on Rua de Belém since 1837.1 Beyond the monument strip, cafés run up the hill into Ajuda and Restelo, where most are neighborhood cafés and pastelarias (bakery-cafés).
Local tip: The monastery is closed on Mondays and opens at 09:30 the rest of the week. For coffee before then, O Casalinho on Travessa Paulo Martins opens daily at 07:00, and Manteigaria on Rua de Belém from 08:00.
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Tram 15 runs from Praça da Figueira along the western riverfront to Belém and Algés, and it is the only route worked by articulated trams.6 Tram 18 goes from Cais do Sodré to the Ajuda cemetery and serves the Ajuda side of the district.6 Along the river, Visit Lisboa notes green areas, marinas, sailing clubs and a cycle lane.4
Jerónimos is the leading example of the Manueline style, an ornate Portuguese manner that mixes maritime motifs with Gothic and Renaissance elements. Vasco da Gama's remains were moved to a tomb in its lower choir in 1880. The monastery was secularized on 28 December 1833 and listed by UNESCO, with the Tower of Belém, in 1983.2 It opens Tuesday to Sunday, 09:30–17:30, and is closed on Mondays.3 The National Archaeology Museum and the Navy Museum fill its western wing.2
Pastéis de Belém tells its own origin story. After the liberal revolution of 1820, Portugal closed all its convents and monasteries in 1834, and someone from the monastery began selling sweet pastries in a shop attached to a nearby sugar refinery. Baking began there in 1837, to the monastery's recipe, which only the master confectioners in a secret room are said to know.1 The shop is at 84–92 Rua de Belém.1
For coffee at the monastery itself, the Navy Museum's cafetaria on Praça do Império opens daily 10:00–17:00. On Rua de Belém, Manteigaria's Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata at number 7 is open daily 08:00–21:00, and Queijadas de Belém is at number 1.
The parish of Belém was formed in 2012 by merging Santa Maria de Belém with São Francisco Xavier, and had 16,528 residents at the 2011 census.5 Most of the district's cafés are in residential streets rather than by the monuments. Travessa da Boa Hora à Ajuda has five, among them Cantinho Doce at 53 and Celeste at 30K, both bakeries, and Pastelaria Outra Opção at 180–182 Calçada da Ajuda, whose name advertises fabrico próprio (made on the premises), opens Monday to Saturday 07:00–19:00.
In Restelo, Pastelaria Restelo, known as Careca, at 11B Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira opens 08:00–20:00 and closes on Tuesdays; Madalen AS and Café gelados Chile are on the same street.
The earliest starts are at 07:00, Monday to Saturday: A Padaria Portuguesa at 10 Avenida Helen Keller and Flor do Caramão at 22A Estrada da Cruz. By the tower, Café do Forte in the Jardim da Torre de Belém opens at 10:00 and closes at 19:00 on weekdays and 19:30 at weekends.
Later in the day, O Casalinho at 47 Travessa Paulo Martins stays open until 21:30, and Casual Lounge Caffe at 148 B Rua Bartolomeu Dias opens from midday on Tuesday to Friday and stays open until 02:00, Tuesday to Saturday.










In Belém, also browse: Specialty coffee Pastelarias Esplanadas Wi-Fi Brunch Open late
In 1837. After Portugal closed its convents and monasteries in 1834, someone from the Jerónimos Monastery sold sweet pastries in a shop attached to a sugar refinery, and baking began there in 1837 to the monastery's recipe, said to be known only to the master confectioners in a secret room. The shop is at 84–92 Rua de Belém.
The Jerónimos Monastery opens Tuesday to Sunday, 09:30–17:30, and is closed on Mondays. Begun in 1501 and listed by UNESCO with the Tower of Belém in 1983, it holds Vasco da Gama's tomb, and the National Archaeology Museum and Navy Museum are in its western wing. The Navy Museum's cafetaria is open daily 10:00–17:00.
Take tram 15 from Praça da Figueira, which runs along the western riverfront to Belém and on to Algés; it is the only Lisbon route worked by articulated trams. For the Ajuda side of the district, tram 18 runs from Cais do Sodré to the Ajuda cemetery. A cycle lane also follows the river through Belém.
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