Cafeography
Lisbon · Estrela & Campo de Ourique

Cafés in Estrela & Campo de Ourique

Residential bairros around the basilica and the market: neighborhood cafés and pastelarias.

Photo: Lajos Kristóf Kántor, Pexels License

Estrela, Lapa and Campo de Ourique are residential neighborhoods on the hills west of the center. Estrela takes its name from the basilica that Queen Maria I vowed to build if she was granted children; work began on 24 October 1779 and the church was consecrated in 1789.1 Facing its doors across Largo da Estrela is the Jardim da Estrela, a romantic English-style garden officially named after the poet Guerra Junqueiro.2

Campo de Ourique, further west, has been a freguesia (parish) in its own right only since 2012, when Santa Isabel and Santo Condestável were merged.5 It has had its own covered market since 1934,3 and most of the area's cafés are on its streets: pastelarias (bakery-cafés) and snack bars on Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, Rua Ferreira Borges and Rua Francisco Metrass.

Local tip: If you come for the market on a Saturday, have your coffee before 15:00, when several of the neighborhood's cafés close. Pastelaria Aloma on Rua Francisco Metrass is open daily until 21:00.

At a glance

79Cafés listed
20With opening hours
06:00Earliest opening
00:00Latest closing
  • Opens earliest: Leitaria Brasil, from 06:00 (Mon–Sat 06:00–20:00 · Sun 06:00–19:00).
  • Closes latest: Quiosque das Amoreiras, until 00:00 (Mon–Wed 09:00–21:00 · Thu 09:00–22:00 · Fri–Sat 09:00–00:00 · Sun 09:00–21:00).
  • Most common features: outdoor seating (11%), bakery café (11%), wi-fi (6%).

Café Restaurante "O GAMA"

  • Rua Silva Carvalho, 319
  • Mon–Fri 07:30–19:00 · Sat 07:30–16:00
  • +351 21 385 2852
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Tofa Snack-Bar

  • Rua Dom Carlos de Mascarenhas, 80
  • Mon–Fri 07:00–20:00 · Sat 07:00–15:00
  • +351 21 388 3379
  • Indoor seating
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Coffee chains in Estrela & Campo de Ourique

Getting to Estrela and Campo de Ourique

Two tram routes end at Campo de Ourique (Prazeres): the 25 from Praça da Figueira and the 28 from Praça Martim Moniz, which passes through Estrela on the way.6 Service on the 28 is not always continuous. From 13 April 2026, Carris ran it only as far as Praça Luís de Camões, with buses covering the rest of the route to Campo de Ourique while Calçada da Estrela was closed; trams returned on 11 May.7

There is no metro here yet. Estrela is one of two new stations on the circular line from Rato to Cais do Sodré, which Metropolitano de Lisboa expects to open in the first quarter of 2027.8

The basilica and the garden

Mateus Vicente de Oliveira began the basilica and, after his death in 1785, Reinaldo Manuel dos Santos finished it, redesigning the façade, bell towers and dome. Maria I is buried in the right transept, and the church keeps a nativity scene by Joaquim Machado de Castro with more than 500 cork and terracotta figures.1

Work on the garden began in 1842 to a design by Jean Bonnard and João Francisco. Its cast-iron bandstand, by José Luís Monteiro, was inaugurated in 1896 on Avenida da Liberdade, moved here later and restored in 1987. The garden has its own café-restaurant with an esplanada (terrace).2

Campo de Ourique's market and Pessoa's house

The market opened in April 1934. It was the idea of José Dionísio Nobre, a local businessman who saw that the neighborhood had nowhere to buy staples, and from January 1927 he ran a temporary market at the corner of Rua Francisco Metrass and Rua Coelho da Rocha while António Couto Martins's building went up.3

The city took over management in 1973. At the end of 2013 the market reopened after a remodel modeled on Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel, with food kiosks, restaurants, bars and a wine shop beside the produce stalls.3

Fernando Pessoa lived at 16 Rua Coelho da Rocha, his sixteenth address, from 1920 until a few days before his death on 30 November 1935. The flat is now Casa Fernando Pessoa, opened on the anniversary of his death in 1993.4

Opening hours in a residential bairro

The day starts early and the week ends early. Leitaria Brasil opens at 06:00 Monday to Saturday and on Sundays, and Pastelaria Aloma (67 Rua Francisco Metrass), O Meu Café (62 Rua de Infantaria 16) and Pastelaria Batalha (5 Calçada da Quintinha) open at 07:00. About half the neighborhood's cafés are closed on Sundays.

Saturday afternoons are thin too: Tofa Snack-Bar, Café Metrass and Lomar all close at 15:00 on Saturdays. Double Trouble Café at 38A Rua Saraiva de Carvalho is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Espressolab, a Turkish chain that set out to bring specialty coffee to a wider audience, is at 3 Rua de João de Deus.9 Com Tradições is the only café here open until midnight every day.

Sources

  1. Estrela Basilica, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  2. Jardim da Estrela ou de Guerra Junqueiro, Lifecooler, accessed October 2026
  3. O pátio das antigas: o velho Mercado de Campo de Ourique, Time Out Lisboa, accessed October 2026
  4. History, Casa Fernando Pessoa, accessed October 2026
  5. Esta exposição gratuita conta a história de Campo de Ourique, Time Out Lisboa, accessed October 2026
  6. Trams in Lisbon, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  7. 28E | Temporary change, Carris, accessed October 2026
  8. Atraso vai em três anos e três meses, mas Metro aponta abertura da Linha Circular para início de 2027, Time Out Lisboa, accessed October 2026
  9. From Soil to Cup: Following the Passion of Coffee, Espressolab, accessed October 2026
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In Estrela & Campo de Ourique, also browse: Pastelarias Esplanadas Wi-Fi Brunch Open by 6am Open late

FAQ

Estrela & Campo de Ourique cafés: questions

Which trams go to Campo de Ourique in Lisbon?

Trams 25 and 28 both end at Campo de Ourique (Prazeres): the 25 from Praça da Figueira and the 28 from Praça Martim Moniz through Estrela. From 13 April to 11 May 2026, buses replaced the 28 west of Praça Luís de Camões while Calçada da Estrela was closed. Estrela's metro station on the new circular line is expected in the first quarter of 2027.

When did the Campo de Ourique market in Lisbon open?

The Mercado de Campo de Ourique opened in April 1934, founded by the local businessman José Dionísio Nobre in a building by António Couto Martins. The city took over in 1973, and at the end of 2013 it reopened after a remodel modeled on Madrid's Mercado de San Miguel, adding food kiosks, restaurants, bars and a wine shop beside the produce stalls.

Where did Fernando Pessoa live in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon?

Pessoa lived at 16 Rua Coelho da Rocha, his sixteenth address, from 1920 until a few days before his death on 30 November 1935. The building is now Casa Fernando Pessoa, opened on the anniversary of his death in 1993. In 1927 the market's first, temporary stalls stood at the corner of Rua Francisco Metrass and Rua Coelho da Rocha.

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