Cafeography
Lyon · La Croix-Rousse

Cafés in La Croix-Rousse

The silk weavers' plateau: the boulevard market, the Grande Rue and a roaster that roasts daily.

Photo: Alexis B, Pexels License

The plateau of the Croix-Rousse sits above the Pentes in the 4th arrondissement, running roughly from the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse to the edge of Caluire-et-Cuire, and is mostly residential.1 It was a separate town of 30,000 people until it was attached to Lyon on 24 March 1852.1 Its canut (silk weaver) buildings have very high ceilings, built for Jacquard looms that stood about 4 m tall.1

The canuts rose in October 1831, and in February 1834 they held the Croix-Rousse forts for six days against 12,000 soldiers.1 Cafés today follow the plateau's two spines: the boulevard along the crest and the Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse, one of its two main shopping streets, running north.1

Local tip: Shop the boulevard market first and finish at Jaune Cerise on the Grande Rue: on weekends the market keeps 95 traders until 13:30.3

At a glance

21Cafés listed
7With opening hours
07:30Earliest opening
01:00Latest closing
  • Opens earliest: Le Mouton Masqué, from 07:30 (Mon–Tue 07:30–21:00 · Wed–Fri 07:30–01:00).
  • Most listed streets: Rue d'Austerlitz (2), Pl. de la Croix-Rousse (2), Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse (2).
  • Most common features: outdoor seating (29%), indoor seating (19%), open late (14%).

Bistrot Theleme

  • Rue Pelletier
  • Mon 12:00–14:30 · Tue 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00 · Thu 12:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00 · Fri 12:00–14:00, 17:00–23:00 · Sat 12:00–23:00 · Sun 11:00–15:00
  • +33 4 78 27 47 23
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Coffee chains in La Croix-Rousse

Getting to the plateau

Metro line C reaches Croix-Rousse station two stops from Hôtel de Ville, then continues to Hénon and Cuire on ordinary rails.2 Its tunnel between Croix-Paquet and Croix-Rousse, built for the 1891 funicular, is among the oldest structures in the world still used by metro trains.2

At the east end of the boulevard, above the Rhône, sits the Gros Caillou, a block of Triassic quartzite carried from the Vanoise by Alpine glaciers and dug up in 1862 while the first funicular was being built.1

Roasting on the Grande Rue

Torréfaction Jaune Cerise, at 8 Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse, roasts every day. The company formed in 2016 when the Torréfaction de la Croix Rousse merged with a shop in Neuville-sur-Saône, and it traces its roasting to Patrick Callegher, who began in 1987; his children took over from 2013.4 Between its two shops it roasts 18 coffees a day.4

Mokxa opened its Croix-Rousse café on Rue Victor Fort in 2021. It has a quiet garden at the back, a coffee school and a Modbar, and serves espresso, filter, cascara and cold brew.5 It breaks for lunch on weekdays and opens 10:00–19:00 at weekends.

Farther north on the Grande Rue, Midori is at number 63 and Le 4ème at 81. Café de l'Avenir is on Rue Jacques-Louis Hénon, and the Aquarium Cinema Cafe at 10 Rue Dumont.

Market mornings on the boulevard

The food market on the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse runs every day but Monday from 06:00: 95 traders on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday until 13:30, and 23 on Wednesday and Thursday until 13:00.3 Régal café, at 152 on the boulevard, opens daily from 09:00 to 23:30 with a terrace.

On Place de la Croix-Rousse, Bull Café at number 24 has Wi-Fi and outdoor tables, and Bouillon is at number 27.

Early and late on the plateau

Le Mouton Masqué, at 2 Rue Richan, is the earliest opener here, at 07:30 Monday to Friday, and stays open until 01:00 from Wednesday to Friday. Momento Coffee opens daily 09:00–18:00 with seats inside and out.

Bistrot des Voraces, on Rue d'Austerlitz, serves lunch and dinner on weekdays. Its name recalls the Voraces, who led the third canut uprising in 1848.1

Sources

  1. La Croix-Rousse, Wikipédia (French), accessed October 2026
  2. Lyon Metro Line C, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  3. Marché alimentaire de la Croix-Rousse, Ville de Lyon, accessed October 2026
  4. Jaune Cerise, artisan torréfacteur de café à Lyon, Jaune Cerise, accessed October 2026
  5. The Sprudge Guide To Coffee In Lyon, France (Emily Sujka, 16 June 2025), Sprudge, accessed October 2026
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In La Croix-Rousse, also browse: Specialty coffee Terrasses Wi-Fi Open late Vegan & vegetarian

FAQ

La Croix-Rousse cafés: questions

Where is the coffee roaster on Lyon's Croix-Rousse?

Torréfaction Jaune Cerise is at 8 Grande Rue de la Croix-Rousse and roasts every day. The company was formed in 2016 from the Torréfaction de la Croix Rousse and a shop in Neuville-sur-Saône, and its roasting goes back to Patrick Callegher, who started in 1987. Mokxa also has a garden café with a coffee school on Rue Victor Fort.

When is the market on the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse in Lyon?

Every day except Monday, from 06:00. On Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday 95 traders stay until 13:30; on Wednesday and Thursday 23 traders stay until 13:00. Régal café on the boulevard opens at 09:00 every day.

How do you get to the Croix-Rousse plateau in Lyon by metro?

Take metro line C from Hôtel de Ville; Croix-Rousse station is two stops up the hill, and the line continues to Hénon and Cuire. The tunnel between Croix-Paquet and Croix-Rousse dates from the 1891 funicular and is among the oldest structures still used by metro trains.

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