Binario Calmo
- Wi-Fi
- Outdoor seating
- Takeaway
- Smoke-free indoors
Napoli Centrale, Attanasio's sfogliatelle, Corso Umberto and the bars of Vasto.
Photo: K, Pexels License
Piazza Garibaldi is the 70,000 m² square in front of Napoli Centrale, with Cesare Zocchi's statue of Garibaldi, unveiled in 1904.1 The first station opened here in 1867; the present one was designed in 1954 by Pier Luigi Nervi with Carlo Cocchia, Bruno Zevi and others, and handles about 50 million passengers a year, with connections to metro lines 1 and 2 and the Circumvesuviana railway.2
Around it lie Vasto to the north, Corso Garibaldi and Porta Capuana to the west and the start of Corso Umberto I. This is the city's sfogliatella district. "Say sfogliatella and you say Attanasio," Gambero Rosso wrote in 2024 of the counter in Vico Ferrovia, beside the station.3
Local tip: Take a numbered ticket at Attanasio in Vico Ferrovia and eat the riccia while it is hot, then cross to Mexico at Piazza Garibaldi 72, open from 06:00, for the coffee.
Nothing matches those filters here. See all cafés in Naples.
Dominique Perrault's 2004 project for the square, under way from 2006, put a shopping gallery underground at the metro station.1 Corso Umberto I, known as the Rettifilo, runs 1.3 km in a straight line from the square to Piazza Bovio. It opened in 1894 as part of the Risanamento, the rebuilding that followed a deadly cholera epidemic.4
Bars face the square itself: Antico Caffè Moro at 120, Caffeteria La Glaciale at 101 and Granato at 26 all put tables outside. Corso Garibaldi and Corso Novara add more.
Attanasio's history starts in 1930, and the shop still makes its pastry shells by hand while many others use frozen ones.5 Customers take a numbered ticket at the door, and the riccia comes out hot, filled with semolina and creamy ricotta.5 Gambero Rosso recommends ordering it without powdered sugar.3
Across the square, Cuori di Sfogliatella at Piazza Garibaldi 93/94 makes the pastry its flagship.3 SfogliateLAB, created by the Ferrieri family of pastry chefs, has a counter at Corso Novara 1D, and Pasticceria Lauri on Via Bologna is a halal pastry shop that Gambero Rosso rates for its sfogliatelle.3
Mexico, at Piazza Garibaldi 72, opens daily 06:00–21:00, the earliest start around the square. Binario Calmo on Corso Meridionale and Carioca on Via Pavia follow at 06:30. Passalacqua says its Bar Mexico and Bar Ciro go through up to 20 kg of coffee a day, around 2,000 cups, at 8 g a shot.6
Porta Capuana was rebuilt and moved in 1484, when the Aragonese extended the city walls; it is named after the nearby Castel Capuano.7 Costa Caffè is on Piazza Capuana.
North of the station, where Via Foria ends, Ferdinando Fuga's Real Albergo dei Poveri, a vast poorhouse for King Charles of Bourbon, presents a 400 m façade to Piazza Carlo III. With €100 million from Italy's recovery plan, work began in November 2023 to fit it with reading rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale, municipal offices and a 180-bed student residence.8 Caffè Carlo III, Dream Cafè and Vanity Cafe Gelateria face the same square.







In Piazza Garibaldi & Vasto, also browse: Outdoor seating Pasticcerie Wi-Fi
Attanasio, in Vico Ferrovia beside the station, has been making sfogliatelle since 1930 and still makes its shells by hand; take a numbered ticket at the door. Cuori di Sfogliatella faces the station at Piazza Garibaldi 93/94, and SfogliateLAB, run by the Ferrieri family, is at Corso Novara 1D.
Mexico, at Piazza Garibaldi 72, opens daily at 06:00 and closes at 21:00. Binario Calmo on Corso Meridionale and Carioca on Via Pavia open at 06:30. Mexico serves the Passalacqua blend.
The Rettifilo is Corso Umberto I, a straight 1.3 km avenue from Piazza Garibaldi, in front of Napoli Centrale, to Piazza Bovio. It opened in 1894 as part of the Risanamento, the rebuilding of Naples that followed a cholera epidemic, and passes the main building of the University of Naples Federico II.
Free listings are free for good. A featured page gives you photos, a menu and your own URL, in your café's own design, for less than a coffee a day.