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The left side of Cerdà's grid, with brunch on Enric Granados and early bars near the Clínic.
Photo: Renato Rocca, Pexels License
The Eixample is the grid Ildefons Cerdà drew for Barcelona's growth beyond its medieval walls. A royal order approved it on 9 June 1859, and the first stone was laid on 14 September 1860.1 Its blocks are squares of about 113.3 m with corners cut at 45°, on streets 20 m wide.1 The district divides into a left side and a right side, and the Esquerra is two barris, L'Antiga and La Nova Esquerra de l'Eixample.2
Cerdà meant to build on only two sides of each block and leave gardens inside; speculation later built all four sides and filled most of the interiors.1 The cafés follow the grid rather than any square: brunch rooms on Enric Granados, neighborhood bars on Consell de Cent and Diputació, and early openers on the blocks around the Hospital Clínic.
Local tip: For a terrace breakfast, take the pedestrian block of Enric Granados between Consell de Cent and Diputació: Índigo Café at number 3 opens at 08:30 on weekdays.4
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Hospital Clínic station, on line L5, is under Carrer del Rosselló between Comte d'Urgell and Villarroel.3 The cut corners, xamfrans in Catalan, are 14 m long, and the standard 20 m street is crossed by wider ones of 30 and 50 m; Gran Via, at 50 m, runs along the plan's main axis, while the Diagonal, the Meridiana and the Paral·lel cut across the grid at an angle.1 Consell de Cent, Diputació and Comte d'Urgell have the most cafés.
Enric Granados is fully pedestrian between Consell de Cent and Diputació, and in the evenings that block fills with dog walkers and people watching from the terraces.4 Before the pandemic the street had 76 terraces with 331 tables; 38 new or enlarged terraces with 87 more tables appeared during it, and in 2022 the city named the street among those that would lose the extras and among 11 zones with noise complaints.5
For those zones the city floated earlier terrace closing times, around 23:00 on weekdays and midnight before holidays, instead of the citywide midnight and 01:00.5 Arrive before dusk if you want a quiet table.
Lilo brunch at number 1 serves daily 09:00–17:00, and Índigo Café at number 3 opens at 08:30 on weekdays and 10:00 at weekends. Casa Florita, at number 57, is open daily 09:00–18:00, and El petit forn bakes on the same street.
Xurreria San Roman, at Carrer del Consell de Cent 211, had been frying churros in peanut oil for five decades when Time Out reviewed it in 2020.6 It opens daily 08:00–14:00 and 17:00–21:00. Orxateria la Valenciana, at Carrer d'Aribau 16, pours orxata (tiger-nut milk) from 07:30 on weekdays until 21:30.
The earliest starts are at 06:30: La Flek at Carrer de Balmes 25, Massamara at Carrer de la Diputació 222, which stays open until 22:30, and cafè Bar Stel at Carrer de Provença 98 on weekdays. Quin Café, at Carrer del Comte d'Urgell 59, serves daily 08:00–22:00.
Morrow Coffee, at Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 403, opens weekdays 08:30–17:00 and has Wi-Fi and outdoor tables. Ripa Coffee, at Carrer del Consell de Cent 291 A, keeps longer hours, until 20:00 on weekdays and 21:00 on Saturday. For records with your coffee, Curtis audiophile cafe record store is at Carrer de Mallorca 196.







In Eixample Esquerra, also browse: Specialty coffee Terraces Wi-Fi Brunch Bakery cafés Open late
The block of Carrer d'Enric Granados between Consell de Cent and Diputació is fully pedestrian. Before the pandemic the street had 76 terraces with 331 tables. Lilo brunch at number 1 and Índigo Café at number 3 sit at its lower end, and Casa Florita is at number 57.
A royal order approved Ildefons Cerdà's plan on 9 June 1859, and the first stone was laid on 14 September 1860. The grid uses square blocks of about 113.3 m with corners cut at 45°, on streets 20 m wide, with wider avenues such as the 50 m Gran Via.
Xurreria San Roman, at Carrer del Consell de Cent 211, fries its churros in peanut oil and had been doing so for five decades by 2020. It opens daily 08:00–14:00 and 17:00–21:00. Nearby, Orxateria la Valenciana on Carrer d'Aribau serves orxata from 07:30 on weekdays.
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