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Thorvald Meyers gate, Olaf Ryes plass and Birkelunden, with the roasters and Mathallen by the Akerselva.
Photo: Lajos Kristóf Kántor, Pexels License
Grünerløkka joined the city, then called Christiania, in 1858 and grew up as a working-class district around the factories on the Akerselva.1 The name comes from Friedrich Grüner, Christiania’s master of the mint, who bought the King’s Mill and the land around it in 1672. In 1861 the industrialist Thorvald Meyer bought much of the area and built the main street that carries his name.1
For coffee, this is where the roasters cluster. Tim Wendelboe is on Grüners gate and Supreme Roastworks on Thorvald Meyers gate, while Solberg & Hansen and Bloom & Brew sit at Vulkan, the old foundry site on the west bank of the Akerselva.2 By 1900, only five streets in the city had more than 3,000 residents, and three of them were Grünerløkka’s Markveien, Thorvald Meyers gate and Toftes gate; all three still have cafés on them.1
Local tip: Tim Wendelboe sells only coffee and opens at 08:30, so for breakfast first, start at Lille Oslo on Markveien, which opens at 07:00 on weekdays.
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The Grünerløkka–Torshov tram line runs through the district, and its stops at Olaf Ryes plass and Birkelunden are served by lines 11, 12 and 18.34 Birkelunden is also on bus route 30.4 The Akerselva forms the western edge, and VisitOSLO suggests the riverside path past Mathallen and the Blå culture venue for a look at the old brick factories.5
Olaf Ryes plass was an open field the city bought from Thorvald Meyer in 1863, named after General Olaf Rye the next year and turned into a park in 1890. A young Edvard Munch lived in one of the buildings around it in 1882–83.3 Birkelunden, further north, was laid out on Meyer’s orders in the 1860s and handed to the city in 1882; its music pavilion dates from 1926.4
In 2006 Birkelunden, its school, Paulus Church and fifteen blocks around them were put under rules that forbid visible changes to the streetscape, which the Ministry of the Environment called the first protected urban cultural environment in Norway.4 On Sundays the park hosts an outdoor second-hand market.5
Tim Wendelboe still works from the small shop at Grüners gate 1. The founder chose a side street on purpose, so that guests would know roughly what to expect before they came in, and the bar has sold only coffee from the start: pastries were tried briefly and dropped.6 Two carved head silhouettes by the entrance recall the hair salon that used the room before, and since 2019 the company has also grown coffee at Finca El Suelo in Huila, Colombia.6
On the main street, at Thorvald Meyers gate 18A, Supreme Roastworks works to the motto “no fuss, just great coffee”. Co-owner Odd-Steinar Tøllefsen won the Norwegian Brewers Cup every year from 2014 to 2017 and the World Brewers Cup in 2015.7 Supreme opens daily 10:00–17:00; Tim Wendelboe opens 08:30–18:00 on weekdays and 11:00–17:00 at weekends.
Vulkan is named after Vulkan Jernstøberi, an iron foundry that took over the site in 1873, specialized in steel bridges for railways and roads, and closed at the end of the 1950s. The area was rebuilt for homes, offices and culture between 2009 and 2013.2 Mathallen, the food hall, opened in a former foundry hall on 2 October 2012 with just over 30 food shops and eateries, none of them part of a chain.8
Solberg & Hansen’s café is at Vulkan 7, open until 20:00 Monday to Saturday, and Bloom & Brew is at Vulkan 28. Vulkan Kaffebar is on Maridalsveien.
Lille Oslo at Markveien 58B opens at 07:00 on weekdays, the earliest start in Grünerløkka, and KaffeLykke on Københavngata opens at 08:00 but closes at 15:00. Kuro Oslo on Rathkes gate stays open until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Around the squares, Haralds Vaffel on Olaf Ryes plass serves waffles until 21:00 every day, vegan ones included, and Cocoa faces Birkelunden from Toftes gate 48, open 10:00–19:00.







In Grünerløkka, also browse: Specialty coffee Outdoor seating Vegan options Open late Wi-Fi
Tim Wendelboe’s espresso bar is at Grüners gate 1, a side street off the main road that the founder chose on purpose. It has sold only coffee from the start, with no pastries. It opens 08:30–18:00 on weekdays and 11:00–17:00 at weekends, and Supreme Roastworks is on Thorvald Meyers gate.
Trams 11, 12 and 18 run on the Grünerløkka–Torshov line and stop at Olaf Ryes plass and Birkelunden, the two squares at the heart of the district. Birkelunden is also on bus route 30. From the west you can walk the path along the Akerselva, past Mathallen and the Blå venue, into the neighborhood.
Mathallen is a food hall at Vulkan, on the west bank of the Akerselva, in a former hall of the Vulkan iron foundry. It opened on 2 October 2012 with just over 30 food shops and eateries, none of them chain outlets. Solberg & Hansen’s café is at Vulkan 7 and Bloom & Brew at Vulkan 28.
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