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Belvedere, the Hundertwasserhaus and Landstraßer Hauptstraße, with Café Zartl on Rasumofskygasse.
Photo: Pavlo Luchkovski, Pexels License
Landstraße, the 3rd district, lies southeast of the center between the Wien river and the Danube Canal. At 7.42 km² it is the largest of the inner districts.12 Its past runs deep: Richard I of England was captured in its Erdberg neighborhood in 1192 on his way home from the Third Crusade, and Mozart moved here in 1787, when it still lay outside the city walls.1
The Belvedere was built here as the residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, and Friedensreich Hundertwasser designed both the Hundertwasserhaus apartment block and the KunstHausWien.12 Coffee follows the residential streets. Landstraßer Hauptstraße, which starts at Wien Mitte, has the longest run of cafés, and the older Kaffeehaus tradition survives at Café Zartl.2
Local tip: Café Dialog on Rennweg opens at 06:00 on weekdays and stays open until 02:00, the longest hours on the street; Rennweg S-Bahn station sits at the Belvedere gardens.2
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Wien Mitte is the district's main station: the City Airport Train ends there, the S7 from the airport stops there, and the U3 and U4 meet underneath.2 The U3 then crosses the district, with Rochusgasse for the Rochusmarkt, Schlachthausgasse, and Erdberg, which has a bus station.2
Tram O serves the northern part of the district from the Hauptbahnhof and tram 18 the southern part, while tram D stops at the Belvedere.2
A modest coffee house opened at Rasumofskygasse 7 soon after the building went up in 1883, and Robert Zartl took it over after the First World War.3 Robert Musil, who lived at Rasumofskygasse 20, Heimito von Doderer, Alfred Polgar and Friedrich Gulda were among its guests, and Jeannie Ebner wrote her novel Die Wildnis früher Sommer here in 1957, according to the guestbook.3
By around 1980 its survival was in doubt; Monika Hackl and her husband took it over and reopened it on 5 October 1982.3 Count Razumovsky, Russia's envoy to Vienna, built his residence in the district.1
Landstraßer Hauptstraße starts at Wien Mitte near Rochusgasse, where the Rochusmarkt sells fresh produce outdoors.2 Joseph Brot at No. 4 opens at 07:30 on weekdays and 08:00 on Sundays, and Café Vilimek is at No. 79. Jonas Reindl, whose own roastery is in the 7th district, has a café at No. 21.4
Rennweg was once the road east out of the city, and Metternich remarked that the Balkans begin there.1 Café Dialog at Rennweg 43 opens at 06:00 on weekdays and closes at 02:00, and L'Attimo Kaffee Bistrot at No. 23 keeps daytime hours, Monday to Saturday.
Parkcafé im unteren Belvedere, at the Lower Belvedere, opens daily 10:00–18:00, and the district's Botanic Garden was founded by Empress Maria Theresia in 1754.2 By the Hundertwasser buildings are the Kunst-Cafe im Hundertwasserhaus and the Hundertwasser Village Cafe Bar, open daily 09:00–19:00. Most of the Hundertwasserhaus is still lived in, so visitors are asked to respect the residents' privacy.2
For late coffee, Black Jack on Klimschgasse and Café Satchmo on Salesianergasse stay open until 02:00; Black Jack also opens at 06:30 on weekdays.







In Landstraße (3.), also browse: Schanigärten Konditoreien & cake Open late Wi-Fi Breakfast & brunch
Café Zartl at Rasumofskygasse 7 counted Robert Musil, who lived at Rasumofskygasse 20, Heimito von Doderer and Alfred Polgar among its guests, along with the pianist Friedrich Gulda. Jeannie Ebner wrote her novel Die Wildnis früher Sommer there in 1957. The café opened after 1883 and was reopened by Monika Hackl and her husband on 5 October 1982.
The City Airport Train ends at Wien Mitte, the main station of the Landstraße district, and the S7 from the airport stops there too. The U3 and U4 meet at Wien Mitte. The U3 then crosses the district via Rochusgasse, Schlachthausgasse and Erdberg, and tram D stops at the Belvedere.
Parkcafé im unteren Belvedere, at the Lower Belvedere in the 3rd district, opens daily from 10:00 to 18:00. On nearby Rennweg, L'Attimo Kaffee Bistrot at No. 23 keeps daytime hours Monday to Saturday, and Café Dialog at No. 43 opens at 06:00 on weekdays and closes at 02:00. Tram D stops at the Belvedere.
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