Cafeography
Busan · Nampo-dong & Jungang-dong

Cafés in Nampo-dong & Jungang-dong

Cafés off Gwangbok-ro and around the 40 steps and Jungang station, in the harbor-front old downtown where wartime artists met in dabang.

Photo: Markus Winkler, Pexels License

Nampo-dong (남포동) is the shopping district of Jung-gu, on the harbor side of Busan's old center: a long north–south street with a large pedestrian zone, with Kkangtong, Gukje and Jagalchi markets at its southern end and the Lotte Department Store at its northern one.1 An elevator on its western side climbs to Yongdusan Park and its tower.1

During the Korean War, when Busan was the refugee capital, neighboring Gwangbok-dong filled with dabang (다방, tearooms) that served artists and writers as cultural centers and salons.2 Jungang-dong, the port district to the east, kept its own wartime landmark: the 40 steps (40계단), where refugees built shacks and sold relief goods landed at the pier below.3

Local tip: Start at Aery Coffee, directly in front of exit 1 of Jungang station, and walk about three minutes to Yeongyeongjae for its yuja makgeolli; Aery closes at 19:00.67

At a glance

49Cafés listed
5With opening hours
07:30Earliest opening
22:00Latest closing
  • Opens earliest: Caffeinated, from 07:30 (Daily 07:30–18:00).
  • Closes latest: Goni's Coffee, until 22:00 (Daily 10:00–22:00).
  • Most common features: card payment (16%), air-con (12%), smoke-free indoors (12%).

와키와키커피

Wakey Wakey Coffee

  • Daecheong-ro 135beon-gil, 13 2층
  • Mon–Fri 11:00–22:00 · Sat–Sun 11:00–17:00
  • +82 070-4150-3904
  • Air-con
  • Indoor seating
  • Card payment
  • Vegetarian options
  • Smoke-free indoors
  • Open late
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Coffee chains in Nampo-dong & Jungang-dong

Wartime dabang in Gwangbok-dong

Gwangbok-dong's position next to Gukje Market made it a center of shopping and the arts, and painters who needed to sell their work hung it in the tearooms.2 Lee Jung-seop spent long stretches at Geumgang Dabang (금강다방), drawing on the silver foil from cigarette packs; Jeon Hyeok-rim held his first solo show at Milda Dabang (밀다원다방) in 1952; and Kim Dong-ri set his story "Milda-won Sidae" there.2

Artists also used the dabang for practical reasons: they had telephones, gave displaced people an address and passed on jobs.2 The name survives on Gudeok-ro, where 서정다방 is at no. 63.

The 40 steps and "Gyeongsang-do Agassi"

The steps, at Donggwang-gil 27, were a shantytown, a market and a place where families separated by the war found each other again.3 The lyricist Son Ro-won wrote the 1950s hit "Gyeongsang-do Agassi" (경상도 아가씨), sung by Park Jae-hong, after counting the steps while watching a girl selling gum and a boy selling cigarettes there.4

The street is now a themed walk with 1950s music and three statues: a rice-puff vendor, a mother and an accordion player in the middle of the flight.3 댄싱컵 has a branch named for the steps in Jungang-dong 4-ga.

Getting around Nampo and Jungang-dong

Nampo station on Line 1 has underground shops, and two bridges lead from Nampo-dong to Yeongdo.1 Driving is restricted and parking hard to find, so walk, or come by bus or subway.1 Gukje Market, reachable from Jagalchi and Nampo stations, opened in 1945 as Dottaegi Market and took its current name in May 1950; a fire on 30 January 1953 destroyed about 1,600 structures.5

Roasters and early openers

Aery Coffee stands in front of exit 1 of Jungang station on Line 1, with a coffee bar on the ground floor and roasting on the third, and opens 10:00–19:00 daily.6 Its owner, Lim Jeong-hwan, placed fifth at the 2024 World Barista Championship.76 Yeongyeongjae (연경재), about three minutes' walk away in a brick building, pairs its dark 7:01AM blend with nonalcoholic yuja makgeolli and plum tea.7

Caffeinated at Baeksan-gil 20 opens earliest, 07:30–18:00, with Wi-Fi, vegan options and brunch, and De Mer runs 08:00–18:00. Later, Goni's Coffee at Gwangbok-ro 32-1 and Good ol' days at Jungang-daero 41beon-gil 5 both close at 22:00. JM Coffee Roasters is on Gwangbok-jungang-ro and Sel Roasters on Haeannam-ro 1844beon-gil.

Sources

  1. Nampo-dong, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  2. [한국전쟁 정전 70년] 피란수도 부산, 1023일의 기록 (하), Jeonbuk Ilbo, from Busan Ilbo (August 13, 2023), accessed October 2026
  3. 이야기가 있는 계단을 오르다, Lady Kyunghyang (April 1, 2015), accessed October 2026
  4. [서울탱고] 박재홍 '경상도 아가씨', Seoul Shinmun (August 5, 2004), accessed October 2026
  5. Gukje Market, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  6. 부산국제영화제 갔으면 어쩔 수가 없다, 부산 대표 카페 4, The Edit (Sim Jae-beom, September 9, 2025), accessed October 2026
  7. Busan emerges as Korea's coffee capital, fueled by champion baristas and coastal charm, The Korea Times, from Hankook Ilbo (May 24, 2025), accessed October 2026
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FAQ

Nampo-dong & Jungang-dong cafés: questions

What are the 40 steps in Busan's Jungang-dong?

The 40 steps, at Donggwang-gil 27 in Jung-gu, were a refugee shantytown and relief-goods market during the Korean War and a place where separated families met again. The 1950s hit "Gyeongsang-do Agassi", sung by Park Jae-hong, grew out of the scene there. Today it is a themed street with 1950s music and statues, including an accordion player.

Which dabang did artists use in Busan's Gwangbok-dong during the Korean War?

Painter Lee Jung-seop spent long periods at Geumgang Dabang in Gwangbok-dong, drawing on cigarette-pack foil, and Jeon Hyeok-rim held his first solo exhibition at Milda Dabang in 1952. Writer Kim Dong-ri set a story at Milda Dabang. The tearooms had telephones, so artists used them as addresses and job exchanges.

Where is Aery Coffee in Busan's Jungang-dong?

Aery Coffee is in front of exit 1 of Jungang station on Busan Metro Line 1, with a coffee bar on the ground floor and its roastery on the third. It opens daily from 10:00 to 19:00. Owner Lim Jeong-hwan placed fifth at the 2024 World Barista Championship, and Yeongyeongjae is about three minutes away on foot.

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