Coffee travel

Coffee in Costa Rica and Panama from Tarrazú to Boquete

Costa Rica's growing regions and its cloth-filter chorreador, harvest months and farm visits from San José, then Boquete, Volcán and the Geisha auction records.

Photo: Tarrazu (English Wikipedia user), Public domain

Costa Rica has grown coffee since 1779, when the first plantings went into the Meseta Central, and by 1832 it was shipping beans to Chile, where they were re-bagged for England.1 It now produces under 1 percent of the world's coffee.1 Panama grows less still: its agriculture ministry counted about 17,548 ha of coffee and 8,287 producers in 2021, with Chiriquí the largest producing province.27

The two countries share a plant history. The Geisha variety, collected in Ethiopia's Gori Gesha forest, went to a research station in Tanzania and then to CATIE, the tropical agriculture research center in Costa Rica, which spread it across Central America.17 Hacienda La Esmeralda in Boquete acquired its seeds from CATIE, and in 2004 a Geisha lot from its Jaramillo farm won the Best of Panama competition.18 Auction prices for Panamanian Geisha have climbed ever since.2022

Costa Rica's growing regions, old map and new

For years ICAFE, the Instituto del Café de Costa Rica, recognized eight regions: Valle Occidental, Tarrazú, Tres Ríos, Orosi, Turrialba, Valle Central, Guanacaste and Brunca.1 It divides them into low zones under 1,000 m, where the coffee is lighter, and high zones above 1,200 m on volcanic soil, where it carries more acidity and aroma.2

In 2025 the map changed. Tres Ríos stopped being a region after urban growth took its farms and was folded into Valle Central; Orosi joined Turrialba; Brunca split into Pérez Zeledón and Coto Brus; and Tarrazú became Los Santos, because the Tarrazú name now belongs to a denomination of origin.4 Growers in Tres Ríos can still use the name to sell their coffee.4

The denomination covers coffee from Tarrazú, Dota and León Cortés, the three cantons of the Los Santos zone, grown above 1,200 m. The graneas and repelas, the first and last pickings of the season, do not qualify.5 The name was first registered on 4 January 2019 and is now protected in 180 countries through WIPO.5

Valle Occidental, settled from the Central Valley in the 19th century, takes in San Ramón, Palmares, Naranjo and Grecia. ICAFE puts its farms at 800 to 1,400 m, with Naranjo's reaching 1,700 m, on about 25,476 ha planted mainly in Caturra and Catuaí, with about 2,250 mm of rain a year.3

Arabica by decree

Costa Rica banned robusta by decree in 1988, steering farmers toward arabica for its stronger market prospects.6 By 2018 ICAFE, the sector's main trade and farmer-support body, backed lifting the ban, and the agriculture ministry had drafted a decree tying any robusta to zones ICAFE would define, to keep varieties from mixing.67

The target areas were those unsuited to arabica: the Caribbean, the northern plains and the southern lowlands.7 In February 2018 the draft still needed the signature of President Luis Guillermo Solís.67

The chorreador and agua dulce

The home method is café chorreado. A chorreador is a wooden stand holding a bolsita, a long cotton bag that serves as the filter; hot water is poured slowly over the grounds and drips into the container below.8 The name comes from chorrear, to drip or trickle.8

Two baristas interviewed in 2020 brewed at 1:15 to 1:16 with water at 92 to 97°C and a medium grind, aiming for 3 to 3.5 minutes in total, since cloth lets water through quickly.9 The bag is boiled, rinsed and refrigerated between uses and lasts about a month with good care.9 One of them called it the coffee every grandmother offers you.9

Breakfast may come with agua dulce instead: tapa de dulce, the local name for panela (unrefined cane sugar), dissolved in hot water or milk.10

Harvest months and farm visits from San José

In Valle Occidental, picking runs from November to February, about four months in the dry season.3 In Los Santos, the 2025–2026 harvest in Dota, Tarrazú and León Cortés officially opened on 5 December 2025, with three days of tastings, a walk through coffee farms and a parade at CoopeDota, the cooperative in Santa María de Dota, promoted by the tourism institute ICT.11 The harvest there involves more than 14,000 pickers.11

Nationally, ICAFE put the workforce at about 25,000 pickers a season in 2023, mostly Nicaraguans along with Panamanians and Costa Ricans, earning about US$0.15 per kilo of cherries.12

Farm tours sit close to the capital, in the provinces of Heredia and Alajuela. In 2017 Café Britt's tour in Mercedes Norte de Heredia drew more than 2,500 visitors a month and Doka Estate's in San Luis de Sabanilla de Alajuela about 9,500, while CoopeDota had run tours in Santa María de Dota for ten years.13

Starbucks opened a visitor center in March 2018 at Hacienda Alsacia, a 240 ha farm on the slopes of the Poás volcano that it bought in 2013. The route passes a seedling nursery, a greenhouse of disease-resistant varieties, the fields, a wet mill and a drying patio, and ends at a café that roasts the farm's own coffee.14

Boquete, Volcán and the Geisha auctions

Panama's best-known coffee grows in Chiriquí around Volcán Barú, at 3,475 m the country's highest point.24 Boquete sits at about 1,200 m on the Caldera River, with temperatures of 14 to 22°C, and farming, coffee above all, is still its main industry.23 Volcán town, at 1,400 m, stands on an old lava flow from Barú.24 Boquete's coffee festival dates from 1950 and became the Feria de las Flores y del Café in 1973.25

Hacienda La Esmeralda shows how Geisha got there. The Peterson family bought the estate in 1967 as cattle land, turned to coffee in the 1980s and in 1997 bought Jaramillo, a high farm on Barú. After leaf rust hit, Daniel Peterson saw that the Geisha trees had suffered less, and the family planted more, some above 1,650 m.18 In 2004 they cupped that lot separately and won.18 Its top Geisha lots now come from above 1,950 m.19

Best of Panama is run by SCAP, the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama.21 In August 2025 a 20 kg lot of washed Geisha from Hacienda La Esmeralda sold to Julith Coffee of Dubai for US$30,204 a kilo; the auction brought in US$2.8 million in total.20 The 2026 edition, the competition's 30th year, closed on 24 September 2026 with 50 lots of 15 kg, and Lamastus Family Estates' Elida Geisha Torre topped it, bought by China's JD.com.22

Picking in Chiriquí starts low. The 2023–2024 harvest began in the last week of September 2023 in the lower and middle zones of Renacimiento district and in Jaramillo and Palmira, in Boquete district.26

YearLotAuction price (US$)
2004Geisha, Hacienda La Esmeralda21 per lb17
2019Geisha, top lot1,029 per lb17
2025Washed Geisha, Hacienda La Esmeralda30,204 per kg (13,705 per lb)20
2026Elida Geisha Torre, Lamastus Family Estates18,004 per kg22

Best of Panama auction prices for green (unroasted) coffee, sold in small lots.1721

Drinking coffee in San José and Panama City

Coffee money built much of San José. The trade paid for the first railway to the Atlantic coast in 1890, and the National Theater is described as a product of the first coffee farmers.1 Farms around the capital have shrunk since, as growers sold land to builders.1

In June 2025 a café owner put espressos and cappuccinos at ₡1,800 to ₡2,300, and a Statista study ranked Costa Rica's cappuccinos the second most expensive in Latin America, after Uruguay's.16 Imports, mostly from Honduras and Nicaragua, made up an estimated 58.3 percent of the coffee consumed in Costa Rica in 2024.15

Panama uses the US dollar. The balboa has been pegged 1:1 to it since 1904, and US banknotes, counted in balboas, serve as the cash.29 Cappuccino, latte and frappuccino are the favorite orders, and Panama City, David and La Chorrera place the most coffee orders on the PedidosYa delivery app.28

In Casco Antiguo, the old quarter, the operator Viajes Auténticos announced in February 2026 a barista session on the grounds of the Iglesia de La Merced that pairs the church's history with coffee, lasting one to two hours, in Spanish or English.30

Tip. To see picking in Costa Rica, go between November and February: Valle Occidental harvests through those months, and Los Santos opens its season in early December.311

Sources

  1. Coffee production in Costa Rica, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  2. Regiones cafetaleras de Costa Rica, Instituto del Café de Costa Rica (ICAFE), accessed October 2026
  3. Región Valle Occidental, Instituto del Café de Costa Rica (ICAFE), accessed October 2026
  4. Tres Ríos desaparece del mapa de las regiones cafetaleras (22 June 2025), El Financiero, accessed October 2026
  5. Café Tarrazú logra protección de origen en 180 países (30 April 2021), La Nación, accessed October 2026
  6. Costa Rica agriculture leaders seek to lift 30-year robusta ban (19 February 2018), Daily Coffee News, accessed October 2026
  7. Costa Rica permitirá cultivo de café robusta tras 30 años de prohibición (22 February 2018), Revista Estrategia & Negocios, accessed October 2026
  8. Chorreador, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  9. Exploring the Costa Rican chorreador (27 October 2020), Perfect Daily Grind, accessed October 2026
  10. Aguapanela, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  11. ICT invita a turistear en la Zona de Los Santos con la celebración de la cosecha de café 2025-2026 (4 December 2025), News in America, accessed October 2026
  12. Coffee harvest plunges amid Central American exodus (AFP, 26 February 2023), eNCA, accessed October 2026
  13. Empresas que ofrecen tours de café en Costa Rica saborean buenos resultados (19 March 2017), El Financiero, accessed October 2026
  14. Starbucks opens its first visitor center in Costa Rica (11 March 2018), Q Costa Rica, accessed October 2026
  15. Informe sobre el consumo de café en Costa Rica, período 2019-2024 (SEPSA-INF-2025-013, 30 September 2025), Secretaría Ejecutiva de Planificación Sectorial Agropecuaria (SEPSA), accessed October 2026
  16. Precio del capuchino en Costa Rica es de los más caros de Latinoamérica (17 June 2025), Teletica, accessed October 2026
  17. Geisha (coffee), Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  18. Our story, Hacienda La Esmeralda, accessed October 2026
  19. Geisha collection, Hacienda La Esmeralda, accessed October 2026
  20. A Panama Gesha broke price records again (12 August 2025), Sprudge, accessed October 2026
  21. Récord mundial: un kilo de café geisha de Panamá se vende por más de 30.000 dólares (EFE, 8 August 2025), El Debate, accessed October 2026
  22. Best of Panama: café geisha panameño alcanza $18,004 por kilo en subasta mundial (24 September 2026), La Estrella de Panamá, accessed October 2026
  23. Boquete, Chiriquí, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  24. Volcán, Chiriquí, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  25. Boquete District, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  26. Chiriquí empieza la cosecha cafetalera 2023-2024 (28 September 2023), La Estrella de Panamá, accessed October 2026
  27. Disminuirá la producción de café en 2025 a causa de las lluvias (16 January 2025), Panamá América, accessed October 2026
  28. Día Internacional del Café: Panamá celebra su aroma, consumo y un ritual que también se pide a domicilio (1 October 2025), TVN Noticias, accessed October 2026
  29. Panamanian balboa, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  30. Experiencia Barista de Panamá: turismo, religión, cultura, historia y café (8 February 2026), News in America, accessed October 2026
FAQ

Coffee in Costa Rica and Panama: questions

When is the coffee harvest in Costa Rica?

In Valle Occidental, around Naranjo and Grecia, picking runs from November to February. In Los Santos, the Tarrazú area, the 2025–2026 harvest officially opened on 5 December 2025.

What is a chorreador in Costa Rican coffee?

A wooden stand that holds a bolsita, a long cotton filter bag. Hot water is poured slowly over the ground coffee in the bag and drips into the cup or pot below. The name comes from chorrear, to drip.

Is robusta coffee banned in Costa Rica?

Costa Rica banned robusta by decree in 1988 to push farmers toward arabica. In 2018 ICAFE backed lifting the ban, and a draft decree would have allowed robusta only in lowland zones unsuited to arabica.

What is the record auction price for Panama Geisha coffee?

At Best of Panama in August 2025, a washed Geisha from Hacienda La Esmeralda in Boquete sold for US$30,204 a kilo. The top lot in 2026, Lamastus Family Estates' Elida Geisha Torre, sold for US$18,004 a kilo.

Where is coffee grown in Panama?

Mostly in Chiriquí, around Volcán Barú. Boquete sits at about 1,200 m and Volcán at 1,400 m, and Hacienda La Esmeralda grows its top Geisha lots above 1,950 m.

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