164 Sauvage
- Outdoor seating
- Indoor seating
- Open late
Earlybird’s roastery in the Marché Beauvau, Araku on Rue de Prague, 05:45 counters at Gare de Lyon and Bercy’s old wine warehouses.
Photo: Gu Bra, Pexels License
The 12e has three coffee districts that barely overlap. Around the Aligre market, people roast and sell beans as well as pour them. Rue de Prague and Rue de Charenton, just east, have the arrondissement’s newer specialty bars. South of them, Gare de Lyon and Bercy run on commuters, with counters that open before the first trains fill.
Those station hours show up in the numbers: the 12e leads Paris for early openers and for cafés with Wi-Fi, and about a quarter of its rooms stay open late. Close to six in ten have a terrace.
Local tip: For an early train, Les Deux Savoie on Boulevard Diderot opens at 05:45 every day; save the bean shopping for the way back, at Earlybird Coffee Roasters in the Marché Beauvau.
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The Marché Beauvau dates from 1779, on land given up by the nuns of the Saint-Antoine abbey; the city’s architect Marc-Gabriel Jolivet rebuilt it in 1843, and its wooden roof frame was restored after a fire in 2015.1 Inside the hall, Earlybird Coffee Roasters is the roastery and tasting shop of Joseph and Taka, who pull organic coffee on a Neapolitan pressure machine.1
Café Aouba, on Rue d’Aligre, is the older kind of market bar. It opened in 1938 under a Portuguese butcher, and Time Out’s 2012 review found its Turkish owner, Emmie Bolatoglu, roasting on the premises behind a red Formica counter, with a house blend of Colombian and Brazilian beans and stallholders crowding the bar.2 Le Penty on Rue de Cotte and Parisii on Place d’Aligre both run 07:00–02:00 daily, so the square still has coffee long after the stalls are gone.
Araku, the Indian-born company known for biodynamic farms and direct trade, chose Rue de Prague for its third Paris address, after Rue de Bretagne and Rue Soufflot.3 The 110 m² room, refurbished by the Delordinaire studio, doubles as a working roastery, with the roasting area behind a large glass panel at the back.3
Casa café, on Rue de Charenton, was founded by Barbara, who is Brazilian, and Alexandre, who lived in Brazil for more than ten years.4 They pour up to five specialty coffees from small producers and pair them with artisan chocolate ganaches.4 Toward Bastille, Latte Club on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine goes for a full 1970s look, with coffee drinks and sweets.5
The present station was inaugurated on 6 April 1901, and its clock tower stands 67 m over TGVs to Lyon, Marseille, Nice, Geneva and Milan, with metro lines 1 and 14 and RER A and D below.6 Its grandest room is Le Train Bleu, a first-floor restaurant listed as a historic monument since 1972.6
Roberta Caffè, inside the station, sells ciabatta, focaccia, pasta and Italian pastries to eat in or take away.7 It opens at 06:00 daily. On Boulevard Diderot, Les Deux Savoie starts at 05:45 every day and Terminus at 06:00 from Monday to Saturday, and both stay open until 02:00, which covers the last arrivals as well as the first departures.
The arches along Avenue Daumesnil carried the Vincennes railway from 1859.8 The line closed in 1969, Patrick Berger converted the arches into craft workshops between 1989 and 1994, and a 4.5 km park now runs on the old track bed above.8 Le Kawaa, at No. 24, combines a café, a kitchen, activities and shared desks you can take for a day or a year, under a solidarity-enterprise license held since 2014.9
Toward Picpus, Sapiens on Rue Sibuet belongs to two brothers: Seif, who holds a doctorate in radio-frequency electronics, and Wajdi, a lawyer by training who now works as a journalist and artist. It pours organic specialty coffee roasted by LOMI and programs talks, concerts and reading clubs.10 La Brûlerie du Rendez-Vous, nearby, has roasted since 1972 and sells its beans alongside teas and chocolate.11
Bercy was once billed as the world’s largest wine and spirits market, with wine arriving by boat from Burgundy and Algeria or by train through Gare de Lyon, and trading tax-free until the district joined Paris in 1860.12 Its 46 warehouses from that century now form Bercy Village, and old rails still show in the paving.12
Kawaa Lumière, one of the same group’s other Paris sites, is on Avenue des Terroirs de France.9 It stays open until 21:00 on Thursdays. Bercy Café opens at 06:00 daily and closes at 02:00, and Gamma Café on Rue de Bercy opens at 06:00 on weekdays.
















In Gare de Lyon & Bercy (12e), also browse: Specialty coffee Terrasses Open late Open by 6am Wi-Fi Breakfast & brunch
Earlybird Coffee Roasters, inside the Marché Beauvau, is the roastery and tasting shop of Joseph and Taka, who serve organic coffee from a Neapolitan pressure machine. Café Aouba on Rue d’Aligre, a market bar dating from 1938, was roasting on the premises when Time Out reviewed it in 2012.
Les Deux Savoie on Boulevard Diderot opens at 05:45 every day and closes at 02:00. Terminus, on the same boulevard, opens at 06:00 from Monday to Saturday. Roberta Caffè, inside the station, opens at 06:00 daily and sells Italian pastries, focaccia and pasta to eat in or take away.
Bercy Village occupies 46 warehouses from the 19th century, when Bercy was billed as the world’s largest wine and spirits market. Wine arrived by boat from Burgundy and Algeria or by train through Gare de Lyon, and it traded tax-free until the district joined Paris in 1860. Old rails still show in the paving.
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