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The Alsterpavillon, a tiled café by the Rathaus, the Portugiesenviertel and roasters on Deichstraße and Wexstraße.
Photo: Wolfgang Weiser, Pexels License
The Altstadt and Neustadt are Hamburg’s center, from the Binnenalster down to the harbor. The Altstadt holds the Rathaus, Mönckebergstraße and the merchant houses of Deichstraße; the Neustadt runs west to the Portugiesenviertel, the Portuguese quarter in its south near the Landungsbrücken.1
Coffee here spans more than two centuries. The first Alsterpavillon opened on the Jungfernstieg on 20 August 1799.2 Three roasters with cafés are a short walk apart: Die Rösterei on Steinstraße, Public Coffee Roasters on Wexstraße and Nord Coast on Deichstraße.3
Local tip: For coffee before 08:00, head for the harbor end: Café Sul Hafen and Coffee & Cakes on Ditmar-Koel-Straße open at 07:00 every day, and Café am Fleet on Deichstraße at 07:00 on weekdays.
Milch (specialty coffee)
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The first pavilion was opened by a French émigré, Augustin Lancelot de Quatre Barbes, and taken over in 1801 by a Swiss confectioner. Hamburgers called it the Rauchpavillon because smoking was allowed, unlike at the rival Schweizerpavillon nearby, which the Great Fire of 1842 ended. Swing concerts carried on there well into the Nazi years.2
The fifth building, opened in 1914, was destroyed in a bombing raid on 26 July 1942. The present semicircular building went up in 1952–53 on the surviving ground floor.2 It stands at Jungfernstieg 54, and across the Kleine Alster the Arkaden-Cafe sits under the Alsterarkaden at numbers 9–10.
Two older rooms sit just off Mönckebergstraße. Café Paris, at Rathausstraße 4, fills a tiled former butcher’s shop that dates from 1882.4 The Roncalli Grand Cafe is in the Levantehaus at Mönckebergstraße 7, built in 1911–12 as the Hubertushof when the street was cut through the old town, bombed in 1943–44 and largely rebuilt to its original design by 1950.5 The café opens Monday to Saturday 09:30–19:00 and Sunday 10:00–18:00.
Ditmar-Koel-Straße is the main street of the Portuguese quarter, and Hamburg Tourismus counts about 40 places to eat and drink around it. The harbor shaped the streets first: the sailors’ churches remain, and by the 1950s and 1960s the area was known for restaurants and harbor pubs.1
Café Sul Hafen at number 10 opens daily 07:00–22:00 and Coffee & Cakes at number 8 runs to 23:00. Milch at number 22 opens on weekdays only, 10:00–16:00, and Pastelaria Cristal is around the corner on Reimarusstraße.
Deichstraße is about 280 m long and mostly pedestrian, and its houses on the Nikolaifleet canal still have the loading hatches once used to hoist goods up from barges. Number 37 dates from 1686, and the Great Fire of 1842 broke out in this street.6
A citizens’ association, Rettet die Deichstraße, formed in 1972 to stop the houses being demolished for a wider road, and the restoration won the Deutscher Städtebaupreis in 1985.6 Jörn and Paula Gorzolla opened Nord Coast at number 9 in 2015, with windows over the Nikolaifleet.7 It is open daily 09:00–17:00, and Café am Fleet at number 45 from 07:00 on weekdays.
In the Neustadt, Public Coffee Roasters opened its small café on Wexstraße in April 2014, with about 20 seats, and holds regular cuppings.8 Die Rösterei, at Steinstraße 19a, roasts and sells coffees from around the world.3







In Altstadt & Neustadt, also browse: Specialty coffee Breakfast & brunch Outdoor seating Bakery cafés & Konditoreien Vegan & vegetarian Wi-Fi
The first pavilion on the Jungfernstieg opened on 20 August 1799, run by a French émigré, and passed to a Swiss confectioner in 1801. Its fifth building, from 1914, was destroyed by bombing on 26 July 1942. The present semicircular building at Jungfernstieg 54 dates from 1952–53 and stands on the surviving ground floor.
The Portugiesenviertel is in the south of the Neustadt, near the harbor and the Landungsbrücken, with Ditmar-Koel-Straße as its main street. Around 40 places to eat and drink are there. On Ditmar-Koel-Straße, Café Sul Hafen opens daily from 07:00 to 22:00 and Coffee & Cakes from 07:00 to 23:00.
Nord Coast roasts and serves at Deichstraße 9, by the Nikolaifleet, and opened in 2015. Public Coffee Roasters opened its café on Wexstraße in April 2014 and holds regular cuppings. Die Rösterei at Steinstraße 19a roasts and sells coffees from around the world.
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