Culcom Cafe 24 Hour Coffee Shop
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Hanok cafés on Ikseon-dong's tight lanes, tea on Insadong-gil and workshops along Jongmyo's wall on Seosulla-gil.
Photo: Constantine Kim, Pexels License
Ikseon-dong (익선동) was drawn up in 1914 from parts of five older districts, and its name joins Ik-dong with Jeongseonbang.1 About 118 hanok built before the 1930s remain, most under 30 pyeong (about 100 m²), which makes the lanes tighter than Bukchon's.1 Seoul named it a hanok concentration zone in 2018.1
Insadong (인사동), across Samil-daero, takes its name from two old districts, Gwanin-bang and Daesa-dong.2 Antique dealers appeared here late in the colonial period, and art-supply and craft shops followed from the late 1970s.3 Brush shops, galleries and teahouses still set the tone on the Insadong side, renovated hanok on the other.3
Local tip: Walk Seosulla-gil on a Friday evening: Fikee Cafe stays open until 22:00 from Friday to Sunday, three hours later than earlier in the week, and exit 7 of Jongno 3-ga is about 315 m from the wall.
전통다원 Traditional Tea House
Nakwon
Dung Cafe
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Jongno 3-ga station, on Lines 1, 3 and 5, serves both; Ikseon-dong is a walk north from exit 6.12 Anguk on Line 3 and Jonggak on Line 1 also serve Insadong.2 For Seosulla-gil, exit 7 of Jongno 3-ga is about 315 m away.5 Insadong-gil (인사동길) has the longest run of cafés in the area.
The village began when the developer Jeong Se-kwon bought three lots, including the site of Nudong Palace, split them into small plots and sold compact hanok.1 They added water pipes and tiled kitchen floors, and by the 1970s many housed low-income households.4 A 2004 redevelopment designation hung over the area until the plan was canceled in 2014; cafés and vintage shops then moved into renovated houses, and around 2015 rents rose and some long-term residents left.14 By 2018 the district had about 330 shops.1
The old alleys Donhwamun-ro 11-ga-gil and 11-na-gil date back to the Goryeo dynasty.1 쪼꼬커피 is at 11-na-gil 42 and 감꽃당 at 11-da-gil 38. Inside the hanok block, 익선주택 is at Ikseon-dong 166-77, 엘리 E LLI E at 166-40 and 에일당 at 166-34. 매화다방 is at 78-1, and on Supyo-ro 28-gil you'll find Mil Toast, onjisim and 온화 익선점.
Traditional teahouses and restaurants fill Insadong's hanok, and the craft mall Ssamziegil, opened in 2004, links four floors as one continuous path.26 전통다원 at Insadong 10-gil 11-4 opens 10:00–22:50 daily, and Hanok Tea House on Insadong 12-gil 09:00–20:00. 신옛찻집 is at Insadong-gil 47-8 and 나무새 찻집 next to it at 47-9.
On the main street, 반짝반짝빛나는 is at Insadong-gil 28-1, Gabae Langsom, with Wi-Fi, at no. 37, 똥빵, a bakery, at no. 44, Leah (레아) at no. 51, Miss Lee Cafe (별다방미스리) at no. 59 and 사월의물고기 at 62-5. Wunderbar is on Insadong 11-gil next to a gallery. For a late or very early cup, Culcom Cafe on Jongno is open 24 hours.
Seosulla-gil (서순라길) follows the west wall of Jongmyo, the royal ancestral shrine, and takes its name from the sunra-gun (순라군), the Joseon patrols who walked it.7 Works finished in 2020 narrowed the road and widened the sidewalk to 3 m in stone paving, and the city has promoted it for crafts and jewelry, with two jewelry support centers.7
Hanok cafés share the street with workshops and souvenir shops.5 Fikee Cafe at no. 81 has Wi-Fi, vegan options and takeaway, and keeps 10:00–19:00 Monday to Thursday and 10:00–22:00 Friday to Sunday. sowyen.cafe is farther north at no. 149.













In Ikseon-dong & Insadong, also browse: Wi-Fi Open late Outdoor seating Bakery cafés
About 118 hanok built before the 1930s remain in Ikseon-dong, most under 30 pyeong, or about 100 m². The developer Jeong Se-kwon built the core of the village on subdivided lots. A redevelopment plan was canceled in 2014, cafés moved in afterward, and Seoul named the area a hanok concentration zone in 2018.
Jongno 3-ga station on Lines 1, 3 and 5 serves both, and Ikseon-dong is a walk north from exit 6. Anguk station on Line 3 and Jonggak station on Line 1 also serve Insadong. Exit 7 of Jongno 3-ga is about 315 m from Seosulla-gil, along the wall of Jongmyo.
Traditional teahouses line Insadong, many in hanok. 전통다원 at Insadong 10-gil 11-4 opens daily 10:00–22:50, and Hanok Tea House on Insadong 12-gil opens daily 09:00–20:00. The Ssamziegil craft mall, opened in 2004, is on the same street and links four floors as one continuous path.
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