Tokyo · Sugamo & Ōtsuka
Cafés in Sugamo & Ōtsuka
Morning sets under stained glass near Jizō-dori, a milk shop's name kept alive, a café born of a tiny yōshoku kitchen, and pour-overs in Komagome.
Photo: Lorenzo Castellino, Pexels License
Sugamo is best known for Kōgan-ji temple and its Togenuki Jizō, whose shopping street, Jizō-dōri, draws so many older visitors that it earned the nickname "Grandmas' Harajuku".1 Route 17, which follows the old Nakasendō road, runs past the station, and since the pandemic the Shōwa-era look of the place has brought younger visitors too.1
One stop along the Yamanote line, Ōtsuka grew up around its 1903 station, and the Toden Arakawa tram stops under the JR tracks there, at a stop that began in 1911.2 Coffee follows the same split between old and new, with ornate kissaten (old-style coffee houses) near Sugamo and a small roaster farther out in Komagome.
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Coffee chains in Sugamo & Ōtsuka
Chain
Doutor Coffee
Show 7 locations
- ドトールコーヒーショップ王子メトロピア店
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 中里一丁目 6-1Mon–Fri 07:30–22:00 · Sat–Sun 08:30–21:00
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 南大塚三丁目 53-5Mon–Fri 07:30–21:00 · Sat 07:30–20:00 · Sun 08:30–19:00
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 南大塚二丁目 11-7Mon–Fri 07:30–21:00 · Sat–Sun 08:00–19:00
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 本駒込二丁目 28-10Mon–Fri 07:30–20:30 · Sat–Sun 08:00–19:00
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 本駒込六丁目 15-1Mon–Fri 07:00–21:00 · Sat–Sun 08:00–20:30
- ドトールコーヒーショップ, 王子一丁目 4-1Mon–Fri 06:30–22:00 · Sat–Sun 07:00–22:00
Chain
Starbucks
Show 4 locations
- スターバックス, 北大塚二丁目 13-1Daily 07:00–23:00
- スターバックス, 南大塚三丁目 33-1Daily 07:30–22:30
- スターバックス, 東田端1丁目17-2
- スターバックス, 王子一丁目 9-5Mon–Fri 07:00–22:00 · Sat–Sun 08:00–22:00
Chain
Tully's Coffee
- タリーズコーヒー, 南大塚三丁目 53-11Mon–Fri 07:30–21:00 · Sat 08:00–21:00 · Sun 08:00–20:00
- タリーズコーヒー, 巣鴨 18-18
- タリーズコーヒー, 巣鴨一丁目 16-8Mon–Fri 10:00–22:00 · Sat–Sun 10:00–21:00
Chain
PRONTO
Chain
Saint Marc Café
- サンマルクカフェ, 大塚一丁目 4-10Daily 07:00–23:00
- サンマルクカフェ, 巣鴨三丁目 27-8Daily 07:00–22:00
Chain
Excelsior Caffé
Chain
Café Renoir
- ルノアール, 北大塚2-2-2
- ルノアール, 巣鴨一丁目 15-1Daily 07:30–23:00
Chain
Kohikan
Chain
Komeda's Coffee
Chain
Ueshima Coffee
- 上島珈琲店巣鴨店, 巣鴨2丁目1-2
- 上島珈琲店, 音羽1丁目17-11Mon–Fri 07:30–21:00
Chain
Hoshino Coffee
Chain
BECK'S COFFEE SHOP
Chain
Segafredo Zanetti
Chain
Capital Coffee
Stained glass and milk in Sugamo
伯爵 (Hakusyaku, meaning "Count"), two minutes from Sugamo Station, bills itself as a Shōwa-style coffee parlor: large fresh flower arrangements, a stained-glass ceiling and more than 20 tables in mismatched colors and sizes.3 It opens at 07:00, with morning sets from ¥800 and a cake set at ¥1,230 as of 2026, and it calls its doria the house specialty.3 There is Wi-Fi if you need it.3
福代牛乳店 (Fukushiro Milk Shop), on a second floor five minutes from the station, is a café and bar rather than a dairy. The owner took the name from the family milk shop, now gone after 100 years, so that something of it would survive.4 It aims to open around 14:00 and close around 23:00, skips Tuesdays and posts any changes on Instagram.4
Ōtsuka and the café that came from a candy family
CAFE GOTOO goes back to a candy maker.5 The Gotō family made chitose-ame, the long candy sticks given to children at Shichi-Go-San, in Ōtsuka after the war, until the founder told his grandson not to follow him into the trade.5 The grandson opened a 12-tsubo (40 m²) Western-style kitchen in 1971 with a former hotel chef from Guam.5
That restaurant had only 14 seats and no room to linger over coffee, so the family opened CAFE GOTOO for that purpose, at first serving only coffee with bread and sandwiches.5 Looking abroad for what suits coffee, they settled on bread, and ordered the dough from a factory in Europe.5
Hyaqtoh Coffee and a Komagome second floor
百塔珈琲 (Hyaqtoh Coffee) is a specialty roaster on the second floor of a small building on Komagome 3-chōme, with pour-overs in the room and house-roasted beans to take home.6 Laptops are not allowed.6 Groups are capped at three.7 Café hours are short, 14:30 to 19:00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays and 14:00 to 18:00 on Sundays as of October 2026.7
The shop also sells zines, among them a homage to the novelist Ōe Kenzaburō and its Visit Palestine poster exhibition series, and states its solidarity with Palestine on its home page.7 Roast choices run from medium-light to dark, with origins from Africa, the Americas and Asia.7
Sources
- 巣鴨, Wikipedia (Japanese), accessed November 2026
- 大塚駅 (東京都), Wikipedia (Japanese), accessed November 2026
- 珈琲専門館伯爵 巣鴨店, 珈琲専門館伯爵, accessed November 2026
- 福代牛乳店 / rnnn, 福代牛乳店, accessed November 2026
- ひすとりー, GOTOO, accessed November 2026
- Hyaqtoh Coffee, Time Out Tokyo, accessed November 2026
- 百塔珈琲 Hyaqtoh Coffee online, 百塔珈琲, accessed November 2026
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FAQ
Sugamo & Ōtsuka cafés: questions
Where can you get an early morning coffee near Sugamo Station in Tokyo?
The coffee parlor Hakusyaku, whose name means Count, opens at 07:00 two minutes from Sugamo Station, with morning sets from ¥800 as of 2026. It has a stained-glass ceiling, large fresh flower arrangements, more than 20 tables and Wi-Fi, and it is a short walk from the Jizō-dōri shopping street.
Are laptops allowed at Hyaqtoh Coffee in Komagome, Tokyo?
No. Laptops are not allowed at this second-floor specialty roaster on Komagome 3-chōme, and groups are capped at three. Café hours were 14:30 to 19:00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays and 14:00 to 18:00 on Sundays as of October 2026. Pour-overs are served in the room, and house-roasted beans are sold to take home.
What is the history of CAFE GOTOO in Ōtsuka, Tokyo?
The Gotō family made candy sticks in Ōtsuka after the war, then opened a tiny Western-style kitchen in 1971. That restaurant had only 14 seats and no room to linger over coffee, so the family opened the café for that purpose, at first serving only coffee with bread and sandwiches made from European dough.
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Own a café in Sugamo & Ōtsuka?
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