Cafeography
Belgrade · Skadarlija & Bajloni

Cafés in Skadarlija & Bajloni

Skadarska’s cobbled kafanas, cafés in the old Bajloni brewery on Cetinjska, Kondina and Hilandarska, and bars open until 03:00.

Photo: Nikola Kojević, Pexels License

Skadarlija is Belgrade’s bohemian quarter, often compared with Montmartre, and has been protected by law since 1967; after Kalemegdan it is the city’s second most visited sight.1 Skadarska itself is under 400 meters long and runs from Bulevar despota Stefana to Dušanova street, near the Bajloni open green market.1

In the early 20th century the street had 15 kafanas.1 Tri šešira (Three Hats) opened in 1864 and is the oldest still working in Skadarlija, second in Belgrade only to the kafana “?”.1 It plays tamburica music every evening, carrying on a habit that began in the early 20th century, when kafana owners hired local bands to bring in guests.23

Local tip: Tri šešira seats 80 in its garden and asks for reservations; for a coffee without the music, Artist on Kondina opens at 07:00.2

At a glance

32Cafés listed
20With opening hours
07:00Earliest opening
03:00Latest closing
  • Opens earliest: Artist, from 07:00 (Daily 07:00–23:00).
  • Closes latest: Hand made, until 03:00 (Mon–Thu 10:00–02:00 · Fri–Sat 10:00–03:00 · Sun 10:00–02:00).
  • Most common features: smoke-free indoors (38%), open late (38%), wi-fi (28%).

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Coffee chains in Skadarlija & Bajloni

Skadarska after dark

The cobbles take the evening crowd. Hand made, at Skadarska 21, opens at 10:00 and stays open until 02:00, and until 03:00 on Fridays and Saturdays; Red Bar at No. 17 keeps almost the same hours. Both have Wi-Fi.

The house of Đura Jakšić, a writer and painter who lived and died in Skadarlija, was renovated in 1986 and became the meeting place for the poets of the Skadarlija Evenings.1 On Knez Miletina, Sonder at No. 25 opens 09:00–23:00 daily, and Puškin at No. 32 opens at 08:00 on weekdays.

The old Bajloni brewery on Cetinjska

The block behind Skadarska was a brewery. Filip Đorđević founded it in 1850, the Bajloni family bought it in 1880 and brought in steam machines, and its Aleksandar beer was brewed with thermal water from the backyard; lagums, underground galleries, kept the barrels cool.1 After 1945 it became part of the BIP brewery and later closed, and the buildings filled up with coffeehouses and clubs.1 Digging its foundations in 1892, Bajloni turned up mammoth bones and Neanderthal skulls.1

Ili-ili at Cetinjska 9 opens 08:00–00:00, and until 01:00 from Friday to Sunday. Ljubimac and Zaokret share Cetinjska 15, with Kafe Bar 16 at No. 15a.

Kondina, Hilandarska and Makedonska

Artist, at Kondina 26, opens 07:00–23:00 every day and is smoke-free, with Wi-Fi and outdoor tables. Evergreen coffee at No. 9 opens at 07:30 on weekdays, and Mini Bar Cafe at No. 16 stays open until 01:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.

Hilandarska has Užitak at No. 4, smoke-free with Wi-Fi, and Kvart and Café Bar Cliché at No. 8. On Makedonska, Willow at No. 28/4 and Moon at No. 35 are smoke-free, and Jonny Deck Board Game & Cafe at No. 30a is a board-game café open until 23:00. Wagokoro on Carigradska 10 opens in the afternoon, from 13:00 on weekdays.

Wi-Fi and smoke-free rooms

Wi-Fi is more common here than in most central neighborhoods, and so are smoke-free rooms: Coffee Pass on Bulevar despota Stefana 25 has both, takes cards and opens 08:00–19:00 on weekdays. Anticafe Beograd on Svetogorska 14 is smoke-free and open from noon until midnight, and Super Donkey on Vlajkovićeva 25 serves vegan food, closing at 17:00.

Sources

  1. Skadarlija, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
  2. Restaurant Tri šešira, Restorani Beograd, accessed October 2026
  3. Kafana, Wikipedia, accessed October 2026
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FAQ

Skadarlija & Bajloni cafés: questions

What is the oldest kafana in Skadarlija, Belgrade?

Tri šešira (Three Hats) opened in 1864 and is the oldest kafana still working in Skadarlija, second in Belgrade only to the kafana “?”. Tamburica musicians play there every evening, and reservations are needed. In the early 20th century Skadarska street had 15 kafanas.

Which bars in Skadarlija, Belgrade stay open latest?

Hand made at Skadarska 21 and Red Bar at Skadarska 17 open at 10:00 and stay open until 03:00 on Fridays and Saturdays; on other nights Hand made closes at 02:00 and Red Bar at 02:30. Ili-ili on Cetinjska and Mini Bar Cafe on Kondina close at 01:00 at weekends.

What was the Bajloni brewery near Skadarlija in Belgrade?

Filip Đorđević founded a brewery on Cetinjska street in 1850. The Bajloni family bought it in 1880, added steam machines and brewed Aleksandar beer with thermal water from the yard. It later closed, and the old brewery buildings filled with coffeehouses and clubs.

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