Alex Coffee
- Outdoor seating
- Takeaway
- Indoor seating
- Wheelchair access
- Smoke-free indoors
- Open late
Office towers and pastry shops around Büyükdere Caddesi, from the Mecidiyeköy interchange to Abide-i Hürriyet Caddesi.
Photo: Fatih Ekmen, Pexels License
Şişli was open countryside used for hunting and farming until the 1800s.1 After a fire devastated Pera in 1870, Jewish, Greek and Armenian traders settled here, and the new middle-class district was among the first in the city to get tramlines, electricity and natural gas.1 Mecidiyeköy, "Mecid's village", began as a settlement under Sultan Abdülmecid I.2
Mecidiyeköy is now a business and shopping district of tall offices north of the O-1 motorway.1 Pastaneler (pastry shops, singular pastane) make up a larger share of the cafés than anywhere else in Istanbul, several of them open by 07:00, and the busiest streets are Büyükdere Caddesi and Ortaklar Caddesi.
Local tip: Change at Şişli–Mecidiyeköy by the underpass that links the M2, M7 and metrobus; Çaykovski on Büyükdere Caddesi is open from 06:30 for a coffee before a connection.4
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Three lines meet at Şişli–Mecidiyeköy station: the M2 platform opened on 16 September 2000, the metrobus stop on 8 September 2008 and the M7 on 28 October 2020, all joined by an underpass.4 On the M2 the next stops are Osmanbey and Gayrettepe, and on the M7 Fulya and Çağlayan.4 Driving is a poor plan, since parking is a persistent problem, especially on the narrow side streets.1
In 1930 a French architect and French experts set up a liqueur and cognac factory on Büyükdere Caddesi, then the Maslak Road, among vineyards and orchards; its 1931 building by Robert Mallet-Stevens was his only documented work in Turkey.7 A number of rural coffeehouses stood opposite, sage and mint grew on land that later became a football ground, and the factory itself was torn down in 2013.7
The Ali Sami Yen Stadium opened beside it on 20 December 1964 and was demolished in April 2011.6 Cevahir, with six retail floors and 110,000 m² of shops, opened on 15 October 2005 at 22 Büyükdere Caddesi.5 Çaycı has a branch in the mall, and in the Trump Towers, completed in 2012, you'll find Ara Kahve and another Çaycı.1
The Monument of Liberty, built from 1909 to 1911 for the soldiers killed defending the Ottoman Parliament in the 31 March Incident, stands in a park on Hürriyet-i Ebediye Hill, at 130 m the highest point in Şişli.3 The avenue carries the monument's Ottoman name, Abide-i Hürriyet. Gravita Coffee Roasters, a specialty roaster, is at No. 179, and a branch of Çaykovski with Wi-Fi at No. 195/B.
On Ortaklar Caddesi, Almira is at No. 4/4 and Mayk Cafe at No. 10/A, and Match Cafe has Wi-Fi. Mecidiyeköy Yolu Caddesi has Kahve Limani at No. 20 and The Hill Cafe, with Wi-Fi and takeaway, at No. 22. Envai and Alex Coffee sit side by side on Gönenoğlu Sokağı, both smoke-free with step-free access and outdoor seats; Envai keeps 08:30–23:00, and Alex opens at 13:00 from Monday to Saturday.
Çaykovski, at 3 Büyükdere Caddesi, opens daily at 06:30, the earliest start in Şişli, and closes at 23:30. Balkaya Pastanesi Erol Usta on Şehit Er Cihan Namlı Caddesi follows at 07:00 and stays open until 01:00. Gül Pastanesi keeps 07:00–21:00 and serves breakfast.
Melita Pastanesi is at 16/B Cemal Sahir Sokağı, Çevre Pastanesi on Vefa Bey Sokak in Gayrettepe and Nilly's Patisserie on Celal Atik 1. Sokak. Murat Muhallebicisi, a milk-pudding shop, is at 51/A Büyükdere Caddesi.
For coffee first, Kurukahveci Fuat Bey, at 4/A Kervangeçmez Sokağı, sells Turkish coffee in classic, menengiç, Osmanlı and dibek styles, as well as filter coffee and beans.8 It opens from Monday to Saturday, 07:00–00:00, with Wi-Fi and outdoor seats.













In Şişli & Mecidiyeköy, also browse: Specialty coffee Outdoor seating Wi-Fi Open late Breakfast & brunch Bakery cafés
Şişli–Mecidiyeköy station serves the M2 metro, open since 16 September 2000, and the M7, open since 28 October 2020. The metrobus stop dates from 8 September 2008, and an underpass links all three. The next stops are Osmanbey and Gayrettepe on the M2, and Fulya and Çağlayan on the M7.
Çaykovski at 3 Büyükdere Caddesi opens daily at 06:30. Balkaya Pastanesi Erol Usta and Gül Pastanesi open at 07:00, and Kurukahveci Fuat Bey on Kervangeçmez Sokağı at 07:00 from Monday to Saturday. Çaykovski closes at 23:30 and Balkaya at 01:00.
In 1930 a liqueur and cognac factory was set up there among vineyards and orchards, in a 1931 building by Robert Mallet-Stevens, with rural coffeehouses opposite. The Ali Sami Yen Stadium opened on factory land in 1964. The stadium was demolished in 2011 and the factory in 2013.
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